philip linsell
I'm sure that earlier in the season I saw one of our fleet with thin Dyneema rope in the guard lines, but I can't remember who or where.

If anyone has done this how is it working out, any problems, I'm thinking of doing the same to rascal my superseal?


Philip Linsell

sophia in part i think, guardrail gates

I have had 5mm dyneema D12 for the guard rails on Dark Star for the past 5+ years. Very easy to splice to the right length yourself. I have an eye at each end. At the pulpit they are cow-hitched on. The other end can then be pulled through the stanchions with a thin messenger. Once through, I insert a circular thimble that the eye is just big enough to accept, and then have a lanyard to secure it to the pushpit. The thimbles are Allen Bros parts, but others are available.

Dark Star P275 No 36

Ken Surplice
Yes, without a braid covering.
I've done the same with thinner Dyneema for the lower 'wire'. I also put some of that Spiroll protector around the upper one where it goes through the stanchions, just in case they chafe
Peter Dann

Blue Moon 325/32

philip linsell
Thanks everybody for your advice.

I'm thinking 5mm dyneema for both with some protection through the stantions, heat shrink appears OK if I get the right one, some need 130degrees to work and dyneema melts at 140 degrees. Others shrink at 70 degrees so sound ok.

It's on my winter list.


Pat Morgan
Just seen this thread. I am thinking of changing my guardrail wires anyway so this may be a way forward. However I am in the habit of tying fenders to the guardrail wires. Is this still OK with dyneema? I know I can tie the fenders to the toe rail but that takes a bit longer and the delay is not welcome when entering a marina
I tie my fenders on as usual. The 6mm upper one is way over-specified in terms of strength but it's that thick so it doesn't cut your hands; the same applies to fender rope I would assume.
Peter Dann

Blue Moon 325/32