Hi all ,
I'v recently purchased a MK1 S28 and I'm intrigued as to the working of the winching arrangemnt of the keel . Has anyone a diagram or could explain the "guts" of the workings . Is it an easy job to replace / renew the cable ? It is cable operated I presume .I never bothered to ask when I bought it [:I]

So many questions but wont flood the board in one go [:)]

Cheers

Terry

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Hello Terry
There is an excellent Handbook available on the 28/850 compiled by, and for purchase by, PSSA members.
It contains lots of useful information, including I believe information on the workings of the keel mechanism.

If you cannot find the answers you want in the Handbook contact me, I may be able to help, I replaced my keel lifting wire strops in 2002.


Mike Edwards
Seal 28 "Aztec"

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terry,

the working mechanism of the lifting keel is easily to see after removing the table from the keel housing.
If you want to renew the cables, the procedure depends on where the boat is (in the water or ashore). As you have to lift the keel nearly 20 cm above the housing to reach the bolt, you must find a way to support the keel from below. If ashore, you should first support the keel, build a wooden rack around the table to support the rectangular case of the winding mechanism which is necessary to move the keel from the upper position into a higher position until the bolt is free. Then, after supporting the keel from below, now in its higher position, take away the bolt and you can replace the cables. Take care that they have exactly the same length. If the rack is high enough, you can use the opportunity to clean the keel and apply an anti-corrosive to the upper part which is normally unreachable.

If the boat is not ashore, you would have to do the same as we did two years ago: Find a crane which lifts and holds just the keel by a belt, open two holes on both sides of the keel housing to reach the bolt, take it out, replace the cables and close the holes with two peaces of grp and some screws. Caution: These points are below the waterline.
When changing the cables, check the point where the they enter into the winding case, sometimes one cable scratches along the sharp metal.

Hope this helps

Gerold

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I would add a couple more points, when replacing the cables and reassembling be very careful, it is possible to get the cables twisted in the steel casing. This would make winding almost impossible and would result in excessive ware in the cables.
When replacing the winding handle, screw thread, & brass nut back into the rectangular casing try and keep tension on the cables when turning the handle as sometimes if the cable goes slack it tends to form a loop and there is a chance one of the loops can go over the screw thread and you end up winding the screw through the loop and again this would cause problems.

Mike Edwards
Seal 28 "Aztec"

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Hi there, Terry - hope you enjoy your Seal 28! What's her name and where are you going to sail?

The keel lift mechanism comprises a stainless steel leadscrew and brass nut in a rectangular section steel guide tube. The nut pulls on two flexible wires which pass over two sets of sheaves which guide the wires down to the keel. The mechanism and wires like plenty of grease and if thoroughly plastered every other year or so won't give much trouble. You need to pay particular attention to lubricating the leadscrew, because the nut can wear out and unexpectedly lower your keel for you. There is a small grease hole which you will see if you take the table top off, but I prefer to release the mechanism fastenings, lift the handle end slightly, release the thrust bearing carrier and then unwind the leadscrew until as much of it as one dares is exposed. Some judgement is needed here, because you don't want the screw to disengage from the nut. Grease screwthread liberally! Note this can only be done when ashore on the hard, or in the boatyard with the keel supported on blocks. Now reassemble the thrust bearing (with grease) and wind the handle as if lowering the keel. The wires will emerge from the guide tube allowing you to apply more grease to the wires and sheaves. Easy! (but very messy)

Cheers! Neil

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Sorry for the delay in thanking you all for your response . Pressure of work and all that .
Presume to take the table off the pin drifts out of the handle and lift off "Whole " table -----or is it not that easy .
Just spent the last week replacing an engine bearer which was rotten . Carries it off the boat in a "Morrisons" bag [V] Did it though without removing the engine . The new one will be glassesd "all" over not just up the sides .

Cheers

Terry

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Yes, it's that easy. The pin holding the handle on should almost press out by hand alone. Don't lose the little spring. The table is held down by six self-tappers through the top.

Cheers! Neil


Neil Sinclair
Seal 28/27
'Andiamo of Exe'

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Thanks for that Mike will check cables etc out on the weekend [;)]

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