MikeB
  • MikeB
  • Advanced Member Topic Starter
2013-10-09T22:01:10Z
I devised what seems a good third reef option this season.

Find a piece of line long enough to reach from the third reef point to the aft end of the boom.

Whip an eye in one end and tie the other end round the boom.

Untie the clew outhaul and thread it through the eye of a snap shackle (and tie the clew outhaul back on again).

When it gets very windy loosen the clew outhaul, thread the whipped eye through the reef cringle, snap on the shackle and pull the clew outhaul back on. Perfect reef and no knots to tie round a flogging boom.

I hope that if you click on these links you will see pictures.

http://s1361.photobucket...338_zps28cf4237.jpg.html 
UserPostedImage

UserPostedImage

Mike Ball
P235 No 36 "Juicy Blue"
philip linsell
2013-10-10T11:21:44Z
Mike
It's a bit difficult to follow exactly what you have rigged, but it looks as if it only provides an outward pull on the third reef?
Without a downward pull on the boom opposite the reef point the sail will pull away from the boom.
Also, you are working at the end of the boom at a time when conditions are so bad you need reef 3, not something I would wish to do!
philip linsell
2013-10-10T11:26:59Z
Sorry posted before I was ready!
If you feel that a third reef is something you will need, then rig it properly, with external lines if your boom is full.
On rascal, my 26 I don't have a third reef, I've been out in a force 8, when I finished up sailing with 2 reefs in the main and no jib, granted it was beam/downwind, but I felt in control and safe.
My main thing for rough weather sailing is that I do not leave the cockpit, I have all my lines lead to the cockpit.
Philip
rascal
26
MikeB
  • MikeB
  • Advanced Member Topic Starter
2013-10-11T07:43:11Z
The line I described pulls down the leech and tensions the foot (same as a normal reefing line). Because I have only used it going to windward I find I can rig it from the companion way and don't have to go anywhere near the end of the boom.
Obviously I also have to slacken the halyard and shorten the luff.

Mike Ball
P235 No 47 "Lucy"
Mike Ball
P235 No 36 "Juicy Blue"
chris nichols
2013-10-15T09:14:40Z
Hi Mike,
I see how your system tensions the leech end both up and out, but what do you do at the tack next to the mast? - my mast/boom is so crowded with stiff sail with two reefs in, I'm not sure how a third would fit!
Do you remove one the reefing tacks top make room?
Rgds
Chris
P27/136
MikeB
  • MikeB
  • Advanced Member Topic Starter
2013-10-15T10:14:55Z
Chris,The only thing I had to do at the mast was to move the sail slide stopper down about in inch so that the third reef tack would reach the hook on the boom. Fortunately I discovered this problem before I actually needed to use the reef in anger !
I don't recall having to do anything with the first and second reef tacks. I think they must fall off automatically.

Mike Ball
P235 No 47 "Lucy"
Mike Ball
P235 No 36 "Juicy Blue"
Paul Bowman
2013-10-24T12:22:40Z
On Kinkajou, I put a quick release shackle through the 3rd reefing point. I then pulled some slack on the 2nd reefing line and placed it in shackle, before locking it. I then used the 2nd reefing line as normal,but it was then operating the 3rd reefing point. It was quick and easy to implement, whilst proving effective in some challenging conditions.

Paul

235/17 Kinkajou
Paul

Hunter Pilot 27, GiGi
(ex 235 owner)
Paul Bowman
2013-10-24T12:25:29Z
Re the above, I have just changed my signature box, as I have now sold Kinkajou.

Paul

Hunter Pilot 27, GiGi
(ex 235 owner)
Paul

Hunter Pilot 27, GiGi
(ex 235 owner)
James Hamilton
2013-11-14T12:53:01Z
I don't know about other people's booms, but there is in fact a 'spare' clam cleat on my boom, near the mast, I was wondering whether to just fix a block on the boom end and lead the third reef line back to this. I suppose this could be the first or second reef instead of the last as it presumably would not be so windy then. I have to get to the mast in any case to hook on the tack, it's probably more a question of whether enough tension can be applied and whether the block can be attached somewhere strong enough. A cheek block at the end might work if there is no risk of snagging the boom internal lines with the self tappers. To avoid having too long a line I suppose it could be threaded with a stop knot at the cleat, then shortened after the first (or second) reef

http://freespace.virgin....james.hamilton/forum.jpg