Don Harvey
2008-06-04T17:35:00Z
I am posting this at the request of Jeff Kenworthy.


The mainsheet attaches to a U-bolt in the middle of the cockpit floor and the nuts on this bolt are coming loose. Hard to believe, but I cannot find access to the nuts, have I missed something or do I need to cut a handhole somewhere?

A leak has appeared recently in the deck moulding which causes rainwater to drip from the inner moulding to the port side of the companionway. I assume its coming from one of the many deck fittings - there is a depth gauge on the bulkhead which I expected to be the culprit, but this appears to be well sealed. I recently reseated the window on that side and there is no water in the lockers, so I don't suspect the window. Before I start lifting the various fittings, is there any experience on this?

Many thanks

Jeff

Regards
Don Harvey
Web Master

Regards
Don Harvey
Don Harvey
2008-06-04T17:35:59Z
And here was the reply he received from Geoff Harwood


Jeff

On mine the plywood panel between the cockpit locker and the space under the cockpit floor has a hand-sized hole in about the right place! Maybe a previous owner had the same problem! I have moved the mainsheet to a proper traveller fixed across the bridgedeck - much more suitable place!

As to the leak - I'd suspect the hatch runner screws first. They're the only things you can do anything about without risking losing nuts behind the liner? I have a spray hood which covers that part of the deck when the boat is not in use.

Hope that helps.

Geoff

Regards
Don Harvey
Web Master

Regards
Don Harvey
GeoffTurner
2008-06-05T13:39:36Z
Like Geoff Harwood, my mainsheet is on a traveller on the bridgedeck, and I would recommend it instead of a fixed attachment. When beating, makes it much easier to spill wind in the gusts (I play it all the time), and in harbour you can get the mainsheet off to one side and out of the way.

I use the U-Bolt as a harness attachment point. But can't help on how to get to the nuts! Will have a look next time I'm on the boat.

PS How many more Jeff's/Geoff's with P21's?


Geoff

Parker 21 / 18 Dawn
Terry Gates
2008-06-05T17:28:51Z
Can anyone supply pictures of the traveller fittings that they have? There was a traveller fitted on Kitty at one point in the past and I have all the fittings. But looking at the screw holes left behind, it doesn't seem as if it was a very good arrangement. I would be interested in how other people have done it. Hope you can help.

Terry Gates
"Kitty" P21 No. 99
Terry Gates
"Kitty" P21 No. 99
PaulBurton
2008-06-18T22:10:50Z
UserPostedImage

Paul Burton.

Parker 21 Papillon.

Paul Burton.

Wayfarer no.9362
Geoff Harwood
2008-06-21T21:10:03Z
This was the original traveller - off an old Solo! The new one (Barton at great expense) is in the same place across the bridgedeck but isn't really any better!
UserPostedImage
JeffKenworthy
2009-09-22T22:02:42Z
A very belated reply to my original query.

The space under the cockpit floor turned out, of course, to be a sealed buoyancy tank and, in my boat, filled with foam. I had to cut a handhole from the locker to get access. The nuts on the U-bolt were simple ones, with no attempt to lock them, although they lasted nearly 20 years before coming loose.

I have since fitted a traveller on the bridge deck, using 30mm genoa track, mainly to keep costs down. It is only as wide as the flat section of that part of the deck, nearly 2ft. With it, I can position the boom as required when beating, but a more sophisticated traveller is required for spilling in gusts - I still have to use the mainsheet for this. The main reason for the change was the main sheet block kept hitting me in the face when gybing, and the new traveller has solved that problem.

The leak was from the windows. I had used some domestic mastic as sealant and it was not good enough. I have since replaced both windows with new acrylic sheet, the first about a year ago using Sikaflex sealant, and the second a couple of months ago using a Dow marine silicone recommended by the local boat yard. Both are watertight so far. I was advised to use pan head screws rather than the orignal countersunk ones, as they are less likely to split the plastic - seems a good idea to me, as the original windows were starting to split.