Can someone tell me what the eyelet in the cockpit floor is for, directly in front of the engine well?
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Also, on subject of unknown uses, I have a zip-in rear panel for the spray hood, which has a bungee fitted halfway up each side. I assume this is to tension the panel, but no obvious place to fix it to - any suggestions? (clean ones, please!)

Stephen Godber
235/51 "Exodus"

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Hello Stephen

All I can do is tell you what I do with them. I attach the killcord to the eyelet. I suspect the eyelet is actually for chaining the outboard to as an anti-theft device.

I use the bungees to roll-up the panel (while it is zipped on)

Also, noting the single cord fitted to your hull plug (or whatever it is called!), I have attached a second cord to the forward lip which makes it much easier to lower into the correct place when I lift the engine when sailing.

David Pocock
Parker 235/52 Arawa

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I don't have the eyelet.... but my Port engine mount rail is taller and has a hole that I put a lock through.. Same as your Starboard rail....

I also don't have the 2 door stops that you have.....what are they for.

I attach the 2 bungees to the spray hood deck fittings, pulls the cover in and stops it flapping around.


Paul Burton.

Parker 235/ 40 Lady Penelope...

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David - so that's what the bungees are for!

I wondered if the eyelet was something to do with the spinnaker which I don't yet have, but obviously not. I am currently experimenting with a fixed 'handle' for fitting the support plate under the outboard - see under Paul below...

Paul - as you are considering a Tohatsu outboard you need to know that the port rail top needs cutting off as it fouls the throttle arm. My rails were identical with 'lock' holes in the top of both, but I had the saw the port one down.

The rubber buffers are to lean the raised engine mounting board on, but imho they are rubbish - they are too wide apart, allowing the board to slip through, and that's why I've extended mine with a rubber spacer. However, I have today removed them completely and filled the holes and am designing an altogether better system, which includes a better way to install the engine support plate. I've moved the two swivel clips that supposedly hold the plate in place whilst you are leaning upside down yet holding up a 30 kilo engine, and filled those fixing holes too, which just allow water ingress into the laminate of the engine bay area. I'll report and post photos when I've devised a better system!

Stephen Godber
235/51 "Exodus"

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I always sail and moor with the engine mounting board still in its "down" slot and the engine resting on the plate. There is just enough room for that with both the Tohatsu 5hp 2-stroke and 6hp 4-stroke engines. This enables me to lower the engine in seconds (I do not need to use the clips because the engine weight keeps the plate in position), although it is a little tricky to drop the plate back in place when I relift the engine - which is why I use a second cord. So I never use the rubber "door stops".

David Pocock
Parker 235/52 Arawa

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David - how do you do that? I can't sail with the 4 stroke 6HP "in the rails" and resting on the support flange as it fouls the tiller. It only JUST fouls it, but fouls it nevertheless. I have even considered having a cranked tiller made to 'curve' over the raised engine, because it would be easier left in the rails than lifted over to the rubber bumpers. I know the 2 stroke fits but I don't know how your 4 stroke does - there must be a tiny manufacturing difference - I wonder if the slot in the flange that supports the engine could be made larger so the engine slides an inch further down?

By the way, I used to leave my outboard raised "in the rails" on the mooring (with the tiller lashed to one side) but do note that whilst the skeg and half the propellor is submerged the sacrificial anode isn't - just something to watch....

Stephen Godber
235/51 "Exodus"

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