Its finally happened. I opened up the engine room for the first time since before Christmas and my exhaust water injection bend has developed three cracks. I have managed to unscrew the bend from the flanged adaptor (with much sweat, a big vice, two stillson wrenches and two pieces of scaffold pipe). I am going to try Vernon Pell's cheap replacement as published in the Seal 28/850 handbook.

Cheers! Neil

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Well, I've done it OK! I bought the parts from the Pipe Center, Speedfields Park in Fareham (01329 237215). They cost less than GBP30. I got non-galvanised, because I'm going to paint it red to match the engine. On the recommendation of the Pipe Center staff, who told me I was not the first to come seeking boat exhaust parts, I substituted a 1/2in 45 degree bend and a plain 1/2in hose tail for the water injection spigot. Having checked on the boat this evening, this modification lines up nicely with the piping to the syphon break in the cockpit locker. How they knew in the shop, I can only guess!

Cheers! Neil

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Hello guys

On the subject of water cooling what size is your cooling water inlet? Mine was originally 1/2 inch and I was recommended to increase this to 3/4 inch when I fitted my new Beta 20.

If your inlet pipes are 1/2 inch, with internal furring and corrosion and wear in the raw water pump you may not be pushing enough sea water through to keep the engine cool when on full load?

My original engine was a raw water cooled Petter 12 and my cooling water inlet was further reduced to about 1/4 inch, I guess as there was no thermostat fitted on the engine, and this was the only way to keep the engine warm, it still never got hotter than hand hot.

The new Beta gets very hot in comparison.

Mike Edwards

Seal 28 "Aztec"

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I have the Bukh DV20 engine. It has 1/2 inch cooling water piping. I mentioned to Gerold in the other thread that the injectors run hot, but you wouldn't know it from the water temperature gauge. Even at full revs it stays at 60 C.

Cheers! Neil

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