OK - How do I get the keel out completely - I have tried various heath robinson methods to get it out - all of which have failed.

CJ is on the hard at the moment, and at the end of last year the keel stuck down a couple of times. I wanted to take it out, clean the box, check the guides and re grease - but I am stuck with getting it out in the first place - any experiences welcome!

Thanks

Claudia Jean, SS 26 - No100, Keyhaven

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I use two extending ladders fixed vertically on either side on the plate box, and lift it out using a gantry made with a piece of 4x2 across the ladders.managed it single handed this year for first time.

Hugh Roberts

OK - that is one I haven't tried - I will give it a go!

What maintenance is there to do once I get it out? - do you grease yours? mine has been greased in the past.

Claudia Jean, SS 26 - No100, Keyhaven

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Dear Richard

We lifted Miss Fidget's keel using two pulley blocks, one attached to the jib halyard and one to the end of the wire strop at the bow that is normally used to attach the tack of the jib. We attached a long line in place of the normal keel hoist rope, and led it from the keel through the pulley block on the jib halyard, then through the one on the wire strop at the bow, and then back to the jib halyard winch. We then hoisted the jib halyard well above the deck, and cleated it off. The block at the end needed to be high enough that the keel would lift clear of the slot in the deck before the lifting rope reached the pulley block on the halyard, but low enough that the resultant pull forward from the lifting rope to the forward pulley was in the right direction to lift the keel.

We then lifted the keel using the jib halyard winch. There were some alarming groaning noises, but we decided that we weren't actually applying any higher loads than the various fittings would experience while sailing, and kept going, and the keel gently popped up! However, we hadn't previously had problems with it sticking, so it may be harder for you....

Good luck!

Gilliane

Miss Fidget, Super Seal 26, no. 69

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Richard, I have used a method very similar to the one Gilliane describes and it works fine. Chris.

I took my keel out last year to repair wear to trailing edge where it gets graunched against hull aperture when touching the bottom when under way. Not too difficult with a bit of preparation, but a bit of a handful to get it it off the decks and safely ashore.

I think I got some idea from the S26 handbook (available to members of the P & SSA). Basically, remove the top cover off keel case and de-rig uphaul. Use a halyard (spinny), or double up with genoa for added strength, to attach mainsheet tackle upside down about 2.5 metres above deck. Attach the lower block to the keel - I just shackled into the SS safety strops soft eye into keel top. I had a spare jammer block that I shackled to stemhead to take the fall from the tackles upper block. This gives a bit of forward pull to assist with the rake of the keel.

I managed OK single handed, taking it very carefully and slow, but would rather have extra "safe & reliable" hands to save having to regularly cleat/tie off while I checked all was clear and safe. Suggest old carpet finally, to protect surfaces when dragging over side-deck, and ideally some slitted plastic tube over toerail. BTW, I was afloat on mooring and lowered into tender, with some difficulty, and paddled ashore!!! Not ideal in any chop.

Once out, its a fair lift to handle even one end of the board without the help of the tackle or a fender as a roller, take it slow and sure, think ahead for next move and what could snag.

Good luck,

Phil.

Thanks all - I got it out eventually. I left the last foot in the hole to stop it swinging about.

There is a patch on the trailing edge of the keel at the top that is damaged - It looks old, but I will repair it anyway.

I also found a slipper limpet inside the aperture that might well have been causing the sticking. Once I got it moving it came quite easily.

Now - as ever I have a few questions.

How far down does the keel drop. Do the plastic sliders rest on the bottom aperture or is the keel hung on the wire strop?

There is some very old grease on the sliders - do other people grease the runners?

I am tempted to change the pulley system from a 2x to a 3x inside the box, and drop the rope size down one (from a 12 to 10 mm rope - I think) to make the lifting a bit easier - has anyone else done this?

I am looking forward to getting on the water sometime this year......

Claudia Jean, SS 26 - No100, Keyhaven

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I actually cut a vertical slot aperture through the keel abput 10" down (exact position needs to be checked) and made up a heavy stainless carrier bracket for a pair of sheaves sized to be just larger dia than keel thickness. An additional Seasure cheek block was attached at flush with top inside face each side of keel case. This allowed a 4:1 purchase, and allows keel to be raised flush with hull bottom, with keel top just projecting top-side, all from the cockpit. Does need a fair bit of DIY and careful positioning of blocks, plus a determined grunt effort on hauling up (need to spill wind or luff, really).

The only snag is that the SS safety cable occasionally gets tangled in all this, so I need to sort some sort of take-up of slack, and perhaps a keel position indicator. The wire cable is adjusted to stop keel a little short of full drop, as I believe that free-fall dropping (don't do it!) will smash hull edges at bottom of slot.

I have carefuly shimmed the plastic slides to minimise banging sideways, but still have a running clearance, I have waxed the case faces sometimes, but only found slight improvement.

Thanks Phil - I might look into that. I just want to make getting the keel up a bit easier. My wife finds it tough going at the moment.

It cost me 250 quid to get the trailing edge sorted in the end - the crack was 4 inch in and ran down for about a foot. I think it was in an area of potentially hi stress and beyond my skill - so I got the yard to do it.

Claudia Jean, SS 26 - No100, Keyhaven

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