I am intending to replace the rudder .

The old one appears to be made from ply wood.

Would I be correct in making it in Marine Ply ?.

Then Varnished 7 or 8 times ?.

It looks as if the original one was made from three piece's and bonded together would any one know the best way to bond them ?. (what Glue)

I have also wondered if the four bolts would be strong enough to hold with out bonding as this would mean I could take it apart and treat were the boiler plate hinges.?

Any help would be appreciated thanks in advance.

If Any one needs pictures or measurements of mine this would not be a problem as I have it at home. (I have seen requests like this before an am willing to help).

Ray (Sealia)

The easiest and cheapest way would be to do as you say and make a new one out of marine ply - exactly like the old one (did it rot, break or something?).

I think you should stick the layers together with proper marine glue. I'm not sure that relying on the pintle bolts plus the tiller and blade bolts would be enough to prevent movement between the parts. On my Sinbad years ago I used to stuff a bit of grease up with the blade to take care of the bit you can't treat.

If you're not too strapped for cash a better thing to do is adapt one of Bill Parker's 21 or 235 rudders. I know of 2 people who have done that with great success. One, Brian Teather of Sinbad 289 Manana is still with us and might advise.

Geoff

My rudder is solid timber so I'm unable to advise if marine ply is ok, though I don't see why not.
I'd advise using epoxy resin to laminate. Also coat the finished rudder in resin and you can then be sure it's waterproof.
However, you must then coat the rudder in marine varnish as resin isn't u.v. resistant and could bloom.
Most makers of epoxy resin supply how-to-do leaflets or you could beg, steal or borrow the Gourgeon Brothers book of boatbuilding in epoxy resin.
Hope this helps.
Ken

Hi, thanks for the info dose anyone have a trade name of the epoxy resin that has been sucseful as I have never used any of this before.

As regards why I remaking the tiller the uplift was screwed into the centre peice however having screwed it back in several times it just pulled out. I therefore decided better to repaire/replace now rather than after it lets me down.

I replaced the tiller the other way roud (excuse it broke first time I took selia out after buying her).

Ray

I have always used West Epoxy Systems with great success but there are plenty of others on the market.
Try to use resin at room temperature. I often stand resin pot in warm water if it's been stored somewhere cold. (remove lid first)
It also pays to warm the plywood with a hairdrier, this all helps the exothermic reaction (setting time).
Basically the higher the temperature the faster it sets, so if you're doing this on a hot summer's day you'll want to keep everything cool!
Finally, if you mix the resin in a plastic noodle pot it will cure faster than if you mix it in an open tray as the heat (and you'll feel the heat) cannot disipate quickly.
Try a couple of test runs first. It's great stuff when you get the hang of it.
Good luck!
Ken

I've had an email from Simon Wilkes who might be able to help. He's at 4 Pellew Rd, Falmouth, Cornwall TR11 2NS and says:
"Hi geoff
I used to be a member of the seal sailing asc having owned a seal 22 called "haven" no 61 for some 5 enjoyable years due to working commitments and poor weather i decided that selling was unfortunately the only option. Anyway enough about me. I occasionally still browse the web site and forums. I see a member called Ray is seeking information about the rudder stock for a seal 22. I have a new one which maybe of use could you please pass my details onto him so that i can continue the good work of the seal sailing asc.
many thanks simon wilkes.

Geoff Harwood