Hi,
Congratulations on an interesting and informative forum. It has been a good reference resource and very helpful - enabling us to make an informed decision when looking at yachts. Possibly a few questions and general nosiness coming up over the next few weeks. The mast has gone up, came down (planned), the sails and sail bag is put together, engine mounted. Almost ready.......

Antifouling - the boat will be sitting against a pontoon, on a flowing river and taken out into the Humber occasionally. What experiences/ recommendations for antifouling do you have? I have heard of 30 minutes curing times, couple of days, maximum 2 months before her bottom hits the water. We may also let her sit on mud one/ two nights during the season.

Kind Regards

Nige

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Hello Nige and welcome, looks as if you will be lonely where you sail.
Being your first year you could try any antifoul as a first test, I would not spend too much money (none is cheap) and see how it goes. International Cruiser Uno is my choice, its easy to apply, 1 pack so no mixing, leftovers keep till next year and it's flexible about when it goes to the water.
Good luck with your east coat sailing.
Philip
rascal ss26

I'm in rather a different location from you - on a drying mooring in a low-fouling area - but last year I used EU45  and am really pleased with it. No weed at the end of the season, and so much left I haven't reapplied it this year - I reckon last year's coat will see me through this year as well.

Geoff

Parker 21 / 18 Dawn

Hi. When the copper coat, impregnated in the gel coat, wore out on our Parker 21, we move to International's UNO and have stayed with it ever since. After a season there is hardly any weed growth and just an occasional barnacle. We since changed from a Parker 21 based on a trailer to a Parker 275 on a drying mooring. As instructed, we use one coat all over then add a light second around the water line. And that's all you need to get good results. According to the experts, eroding anti foul like Uno should not be used on a drying mooring. Well, it works fine on the river Hamble.

I can't remember the maximum time between painting and launching. In practice you paint all the accessible parts and let those dry. For the parts that are obscured by the trailer or cradle or chocks, there are different ways to slap paint on those parts just before you launch. Don't worry, the paint does not wash off. If you are being craned in, chances are that the straps will expose the parts you could not reach before. Otherwise I have found success using two trolley jacks. Place a stout piece of wood laterally across the hull then two stout uprights under it either side of the centre line, each resting on a jack. Then gently raise the two jacks in parallel and up goes the hull. Paint the areas that were previously covered by your supports. It is quick and easy. If you don't do all your painting on one go, keep your brush soft by sealing it in a plastic bag and placing it in a freezer. Happy painting!

Ken Surplice
Commodore

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For Ken
Wow, can I keep my old paintbrushes in your freezer and perhaps my ragworm in your fridge?
I wouldn't even ask at home!
rascal

Hi Nige,

Sorry I am slow in responding to your original request, I am the owner of P21/37 and we sail out of Brough , across the Humber from you so it is not lonely where you sail! Have just laid Spica up on the hard standing for the winter but she usually sits in brackish water for seven months of the year, resting on the mud flat twice a day. When we removed her last week there was just the thin slime of mud on the copper antifouling which washed of with a power washer as we have done for the last 5 seasons. We do get staining on the white hull which we clean off with oxalic acid, this is the only cleaner that will remove it.

We will be back in the water for April next year and if you want to visit us at Brough or make a trip down the Humber with us next year you will be more than welcome.

Regards

Bernard