Our 285 has the standard Yanmar 1GM10 with a 25mm propeller shaft and a Vetus stern gland. The stern gland was leaking - about half a litre every engine hour - at the beginning of the season so we carefully replaced it in June with a new Vetus seal having checked the shaft was smooth and free from burrs. However it still leaked!

We've now taken the propeller shaft out to have a good look at it and it shows signs of wear around where the seal would have been. I'm not sure if this wear was a result of the Vetus seal or if it had always been there.

It looks like we will have to get a new shaft. The question is what sort of seal should we use. The choice appears to be between another Vetus seal, a Volvo seal, or a PSS seal. (Going to a traditional stuffing box seems a backward step.)

Does anyone have a recommendation? Good - or bad - experiences with different types of stern gland?

285/65 "Sparkle"

Hi Nick

I am a fan of the traditional stuffing box.

Easy to maintain and simple to fix plus all chandlers stock grease and stuffing material.

John Williams

275/60 CRYSTAL

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Hi Nick

I in contrast am a great fan of the Vovo seal. We have had one for about 8 years - replaced after about 5. We have had no water arrive in the boat at all including circumnavigating Brittany in 2006. Famous last words!

We changed from the original ceramic type seal (the name of which I can't recall off hand), which had a habit of occasional total failure).

We had to fit the Volvo seal with a water feed from the engine cooling, but this may be because we unusually have a bearing on the inboard end of the stern tube as well as the normal cutlass bearing. When we first fitted the Volvo Seal with no feed it ran out of lubrication and made an ear splitting scream!

Hope this helps

Tim

I agree too with Tim. I replaced my outboard with diesel a few years ago and initially had the same problem with the shaft drying out with a 'normal' seal. Using one with a water feed cured that and also had the benefit of allowing a tell-tale bleed (like most ouboards, to relieve excess pressure, to be fitted high up on the transom so I can easily see how well the cooling water is behaving.

If it's not peeing quite so well you know the filter is beginning to block up. Very reassuring.

Chris Turner. Elsa 26 (103)

Tim

I have read good things about the Volvo seal but "ear splitting screams" don't sound good. Ceramic type "occasional total failure" doesn't sound good either. Worst thing I get is a greasy drip. [:)]

John Williams

275/60 CRYSTAL

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Thank you all for your responses. I hope I haven't started a conflict between the traditionalists and modernists! [:)]

It will be easy enough to fit a water feed to a Volvo seal as the old Vetus seal has one - although we do not have any bearing on the inboard end of the stern tube - just the cutlass bearing at the other end.

Tim - is there any reason for you having a bearing on the inboard end of the stern tube that I might need to know about?

hello Nick

I firmly believe in the traditional stuffing gland.

I suspect your problem was caused by incorrect engine alignment. If there is any misalignment with the engine it will knock out any seal.

Please get this checked when and if you install any new gland or shaft.

Update., I replaced the stern gear in 2004 and replaced the engine with a beta 20 in 2006. I have not had a drop more than expected since, neither have I had to adjust the stern glands..

The point you need to consider is, if it fails is it going to be predictable or is it going to take you by surprise.

Mike

Mike Edwards

Seal 28 "Aztec"

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Nick et al

To clear up the confusion - the ceramic type seal came originally with the boat - I think it was called a water seal - nothing to do with the Volvo seal.

The reason I had the ear splitting scream was the lack of a water feed when we first fitted the Volvo seal. I am told that you may not need this if you don't have an inner bearing on the stern tube.

On that subject I don't know why I have 2 bearings ie an inner one and a normal cutlass bearing. All seems to run well, so I leave sleeping dogs lie!

Hope this helps

Tim

I didn't have the extra inner bearing but still had the problem of the shaft drying out (with grinding rather than screeching).

Two bearings in Tim's case or just one very snug new one in my case must have restricted the natural ingress of water so that it was just not quite enough to lubricate some types of seal. We do sport very shallow draught boats with very little natural water pressure to lubricate the shaft.Hence my solution with the water injected seal.

Chris Turner. Elsa 26/103

Hi

I have a 31 and it was supplied with a "deep sea sea" from new (1992). I normally get 3 years usage before it starts to leak. I have also tried the PSS mechanical seal with similar results. Both seals will work on a worn shaft as well as the traditional stuffing box. I have fitted a similar seal to the Vetus (Lakeland I think) this winter to compare.

I would suggest a mechanical seal (deep sea or PSS) or a stuffing box rather than buy a new shaft (to save money)

A water flush is required with all the seals listed to keep the cutlass bearings lubricated as well as the seal.

Two cutlass bearings are required on long shafts to stop whipping.

John Harburn