Would someone who has done this for themselves please could give me a step-by-step summary of the procedure and equipment required and what to look out for?

Not sure if I'm going to be able to reach the sump-nut and whether oil would have to be extracted via the dipstick instead?

Thanks!

Richard (Minimosh 66)

quote:

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Originally posted by rcw

My Seal 28 is now laid up in a yard and I'm considering setting about my first oil change. The installed engine is the original Bukh 20.

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Hi Richard

I hope that you only got Minimosh this season if this is its first oil change.[;)]

I am sorry I don't have a Bukh in Aztec so I cant give you a lot of help I am afraid. Hopefully someone else will pop on here soon and advise.

Basic essentials are;

Lots of rag to wipe up spills. Put the rag down around the engine before you have a spill.

A tray or pot to drain the oil into.

A screw top container to put the wast oil into to take it to the dump.

Correct size socket and a ratchet for the sump nut.

If you are changing the oil filter, which you should do at the same time, it is useful to have an oil filter wrench.

A small container to put under the oil filter to catch the filter and the oil that spills out.

I find it is essential to run the engine for 15 min to warm the oil up.

Good luck

Mike

Mike Edwards

Seal 28 "Aztec"

I have a Bukh DV 20 on my Seal 28 (Saphena Minor)and change the oil every season. I hope the following is helpful:

You need to get the engine thoroughly warmed up to make the oil thin enough to pump it out. This will take up to half an hour or so of running the engine so, if you intend to do it while the boat is out of the water, you will have to jury-rig a supply of water to the water pump inlet before you start, and make sure the outlet is clear and doesn't throw water all over the boat next to you! It is best to change the oil at the end of the season just before the boat comes out of the water to avoid this problem (and also to allow you to run the engine in gear, which is better for it). Old engine oil can be corrosive, and this is another reason why it is best to change it at the end of the season, rather than leave it in the engine over the winter. Given that we are already at the start of February, however, you might consider leaving the oil change until you put it back in the water, assuming that willl be around the end of March. It really depends on how easily you can rig a cooling water supply while it's on the hard.

If your boat is anything like mine, you will not be able to drain the oil using the sump plug - you can't get at it. You will have to pump the oil out of the engine through the dipstick hole. To do this, you will need a vacuum pump with a probe, which you can buy from a chandlers - they don't cost too much. For the pump to work, the oil must be thin, which means it must be hot. It takes a while to pump out all the oil, so don't be in a hurry.

While you're at it, you should change the oil in the gearbox as well, which is another good reason to have the boat in the water, so you have it in gear and warm the oil in the gearbox. On the DV20, the gear box uses the same oil as the engine.

After consulting Bukh and Shell, I use Rimula R3X 15w-40, which has the correct viscosity for these old engines. You can get it from Lubricant Supplies on the internet. When refilling the engine and the gear box, be careful to use the exact quantities stated in the engine manual.

Once the engine is empty, change the oil filter and tighten the new one properly as Mike says, with the right tool. I can say from experience that cleaning up after a leak from a loose oil filter is a very messy and unpleasant business!

While you are changing the oil, take the opportunity to change the sacrificial anode at the back of the engine - it is important that this is done every year. Also change/clean the fuel filters and replace the water pump impellor (always keep at least 2 spare impellors on board.

Hope this helps.

Dennis Sewell

Saphena Minor

I put a large plastic bag round the oil filter after initial loosening, when the filter comes out it falls into the bag along with any spilt oil. It works for me.

If Minimosh is laid up in a yard they should have waste oil disposal facilities, easiest way to dispose.

Have fun!

Philip

Mike

Mike Edwards

Seal 28 "Aztec"

I think the plan will be to change the oil immediately after relaunch as it's going to be difficult to provide a water supply and get the oil truly warm. In the meantime I'll resource a pump to extract oil via the dipstick and a new filter and anode. I'll also replace the impeller.

Mike: you're right - it is my first season with Minimosh :-)

Richard

Somehow my posting reply came in error form.

I previously have owned a Moody 29 with this engine.

I was recommended by my Bukh dealer to use a metal oil pump via dipstick hole.

Owned boat for 10 years, never had any problems will oil or filter change

If you have a water supply nearby you can easily rig a garden hose and connect to the water intake to the engine. I rig this each winter for my Beta and run the engine about once a month throughout the winter. I transfer the hose to a bucket half filled with water/antifreeze mix for the last seconds and shut off when the bucket is empty. This keeps an antifreeze mix in the engine, essential in my mind.

Philip

I hang a 2 gallon bucket over the side with the top of the bucket at the water line. I tie a hose into the bucket so there is half a coil laying wound the bottom and then take this to the engine water pump. I place the feed from the tap into the bucket and tie that on as well. Depending on water pressure you may have to slow the engine down so the bucket stays half full. With my Beta 20 it drains the bucket at much over 1800 RPM.

There is still the risk of filling the exhaust and ultimatly a cylinder if the engine stops by syphon action so keep an eye on this.

Mike

Mike Edwards

Seal 28 "Aztec"