I've looked at your article, Marvin in the 275 Articles section, 'resealing the windows' and found it very interesting - thank you for posting it. You suggest overcoming the problem of the screws stripping by using thread inserts. I can see that this is a good idea, as we certainly have screws on Delphine's windows that turn without biting and this is undoubtedly contributing to the leaks we have. You suggest using brass inserts with stainless screws - is this a better solution than stainless inserts with stainless screws? Do other people have any views?

Many thanks...

Gilliane

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Hey there.....

I tried to write a few days ago but power outages lost my text...... Hurricane Irma continues because we have jumpy internet and power.

Thanks for reading my article , may I provide some history. While I was living in Upstate New York, I purchased The Happy Seal in late 1989 and moved it from Florida to Oneida Lake, NY. There winters are very cold and summers typical 68 night 88 or less daytime. I noticed that my windows leaked almost from the 2nd year. Around 1992 I contacted Bill Parker and we discussed the problem and he sent me Sikaflex tubes to rebed the windows so in 1992, I decided to take both windows apart and clean all sealant and rebed using that product. Well that lasted about 2 years and again the same problem leaking especially in the lower corners and nothing seemed to work ...well I used black plastic tape as a surround..it helps but tends to shrink. In 1997 I did the whole job again using Ge Silicone which was highly touted. Satisfaction for another 3 or so years...not perfect..still had stripped screws and slight leaks. The big problem started when in 2000 I moved to Florida and the weather went hot and hotter. Again the leaks started and now I could visibly see the expansion of the plastic windows ..there was a wavyness. After 2004 and Hurricane Charlie I decided to stop the leaks once and for all and began to look at other boats finding the factory construction using sealant and wood screws not really "marine" grade. Most boats had through bolted frames to hold windows. But I didn't want through bolted to mess my inside cabin.

Visiting my local hardware store I discovered serts..used as screw-in blind nuts in furniture. I "bench" experimented with these serts and found that if I epoxy them into a similar light weight wood as used in construction cabin top, I could not pull these out and they didn't strip out or turn. On top of that they were brass, didn't rust, and they mated well with standard stainless thread. So now that fills you in...the rest of the story is in the article.

Let me repeat some details...Important..you must try to locate and mount the serts as close as possible to original hole for obvious reason..or else you'll end up slightly opening up the holes in the plastic. Do practice on some scrap wood to get the idea of doing the work.

And get this concept..using a touch of oil on the thread of the sert then adding the epoxy into the hole and then screwing in the sert...THEN using your mounting screw...thread it into the sert and check and align the position of the sert and screw.(sometimes the sert will screw in at an angle) Why the oil? well if the epoxy gets into the thread you'll have to clear that. A tip..use 60 minute epoxy and keep turning the screws in and out as the epoxy sets so that you keep the threads clear..the epoxy sets quickly and you'll be ready to mount the windows once you allow the serts to set rock hard. If you are afraid to do this work...try just one and practice ..it's really easy to do.

It's been since 2004 ....I haven't touched the screws or had any leaks ..not even after Hurricane Irma. Good Luck and Fair Winds. Marv

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Hi Gilliane, just a quick reply. I used Marvin's method three years ago, it was very simple and so far my windows are leak free. One thing that does need pointing out is that you need to make sure you put sealant around the screws when you insert them, a) to seal the screw itself to the perspex but also b) to ensure the screws do not work loose, otherwise, it works a treat. I used stainless inserts which I managed to source online (I think they cost £95 for 180 (90 per side) and I used sticky backed 3mm closed cell foam stuck onto the GRP frame area and painted the inside frame area of the plastic with the special Sikaflex black sealer which then bonds to the closed cell foam when it is screwed down. I penciled the outline of the windows on the GRP frame area on the cabin and then masked the area outside of that with plenty of low tack masking tape before sticking the closed cell foam on the frame area. It was then simple to run a sharp blade around the window after it was screwed in place and cut off the excess sticky back closed cell foam which was stuck to the low tack masking tape, and then peel it all off without having to try to unstick the sticky back foam from the hull (it sticks really well!)

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Oh and one other thing I forgot to mention, when you put the sticky back foam on the cabin sides, cut out the window openings carefully through the foam BEFORE placing the window plastic and screwing it down, it's a lot easier than doing it from the inside after you have screwed it down, particularly as you are trying to cut through the foam from the sticky side which is a real pain (ask me how I know) Depending on how careful you are, you may still have to trim the inside afterwards but that is a lot easier than trying to do the whole thing from the inside after you have fixed the windows.

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Hey Martin...

You are exactly right...about putting sealant on the screws and the window plastic and mounting hole before screwing down. I did do just that and I think it's the reason I haven't had to retighten....I have tried gently turning the screws and they seems to bounce back so I know it's still sealed.

Ain't broke don't fix!

I used a ton of sealant to "paint" the black sealant and had to be careful with getting inside etc.....I like the idea of the sticky back...AND Sikaflex.

Great job!

Marv

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