John Elliott (hopefully P275/30) emailed me a query about fixing a car track to the coachroof to get the right lead for a blade-jib sheet. I had posted a similar query in the 21 forum on 4th Jan so this has prompted to post a "how I did it" on this general forum since I suppose it applies to most.

This is the reply to John plus some pics I've taken today (it having stopped raining!)

"I don't know of anyone who has done that on a 275 - maybe a post in the forum would bring any information that's out there. I did exactly that on my 21 however and maybe the problems might be similar - though not complicated by anything as opulent as a head compartment! I drilled right through the roof and liner in suitable places and then opened the liner holes out to 25mm from the inside with a hole saw. I then fixed the track with 25mm penny washers and nuts and filled the holes with B&Q 25mm blanking plugs so the holes don't show too much on the inside. In the 21 the gap is filled in blobs here and there rather than a continuous fill so you can't take any strain on the liner. "

Are the washers stainless ?????

Are you putting any ends on the track ????

Paul Burton.

Parker 235/ 40 Lady Penelope...

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Yes the washers are stainless - and looking at the pic I think they must be 20mm not 25mm.

I haven't put stops on the tracks because I take the cars off with the sheets when I'm not using the blade jib. Makes the boat look like Shreck otherwise with those bunny-ears sticking out of the coachroof!

Geoff Harwood P21/30 Cygnus

I have now installed the Blade tracks. What I thought was an internal moulding in the WC compartment turned out not to be. There was certainly no gap as shown in the photos exhibited by Geoff.Although there was filler in varying degrees.

After compressing the internal finish a bit in places I thought again and eventually after much deliberation I had some stainless backing plates made up in 25mm x 3mm polished SS by "Mr Stainless" at Suffolk Yacht Harbour.All is now wound up nice and tight. Just awaiting the sail from Mr Hyde.

275/30 "Cascada"

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I am waiting for my new sail ordered at the boat show but I don't want to drill any holes till I know exactly where they should be with the sail up. Has anyone tried using a folding pad eye rather than a track? Is it because a track is better at spreading the load? I can't see any reason to have an adjustable system as the sail will be used fully unfurled or not at all. Otherwise thanks for the info Geoff very useful.


Kate

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Kate,
I'm fascinated you managed to buy a new sail without knowing the sheeting position!

The track is to provide the appropriate ( albeit small) amount of adjustment likely to be necesaary to be able to open the leech when you need to.
My No.3/blade is not intended to reef, just furl, and has vertical leech battens, but no sacrificial strip.
It should be possible to arrange a block shackled to a pad-eye. I had a similar arrangement on my GK 29, 15 odd years ago. There, the pad-eye was installed just at the turn of the deck/coachroof where the glass was nice and thick. I simply spread the load with "penny" washers.
Whilst I think the same approach would do in the "lobby" in the 275, I have doubts about the WC compartment because of the compressibility of the "lining" I referred to in my previous post on this thread. You may well need to spread the load significantly wider OR ream out the "liner" back to the solid glass of the deckhead.

Apropos of nothing, I think you posted previously that you had a carbon-fibre Spinny pole on "Beeline"? If so can you tell me who supplied it and how you get on with it?

275/30 "Cascada"

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Hi Kate

You might only use one car position but you should have a track.

Mine is on the coach roof.

John Williams
275/60 CRYSTAL

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I totally agree with John.
I installed mine just in front of the handrail on the edge of the non-slip, as instructed by Bill Parker.

I bought one 1m length of 1 inch T track made by Barton, and cut it in "half", ensuring the fixing holes were at the ends of the pieces(6? holes each track).As already mentioned I had some backing plates made up. It all seems reassuringly solid. About 18in of track I think.

275/30 "Cascada"

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Just noticed your reply John sorry for the delay! In fact I cancelled the order after talking to Chris Scanes who is very lukewarm on blade jibs and am deliberating further. Instead I replaced my 12 year old mainsail with a new one which isnt fully battened and has lots of roach so should be fast! I'm going to have a working jib and a heavy weather spinnaker as we reckon the conditions that need a blade jib will also need a small downwind sail for off wind legs.
The carbon fibre spinnaker pole is fabulous. It cost about £450 from Atlantic Spars at Brixham including high tec bridle and end fittings. It is as light as a feather and easily handled by a child or other not very muscular crew. If dropped it doesn't hurt you. Only downside is keeping it down below to avoid UV damage and theft of such a wonderful bit of kit. Worth every penny!

Kate

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Kate

It's a shame you cancelled the blade jib.
You would be amazed how high you can point with one.
My new Hyde jib is fantastic and really fast.

John Williams
275/60 CRYSTAL

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Kate,

I agree with John. I am an unrepentant fan of blade jibs in general, and my new Hyde in particular. It has battens and is quite light compared to the cruising laminate genoa.
I am going to set it an inch or so higher above the furling drum next weekend to ensure I get the leech profile absolutely right, but so far it has been great. It is also surprisingly godd offwind if barber-hauled gently.

I bought a Selden Carbon pole with Twaron chafe guard with "hidden" elasticated bridle through Foxs Rigging. As you say as light as a feather, and looks dead sexy!!

275/30 "Cascada"

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