To Amsterdam and back,in seven weeks

 

I’d always dreamed of visiting the Dutch canals. Respect to those that already ventured there from the U.K.. Until now, the farthest east we’d ventured in P275 Vol-au-vent was Brighton. Before that we’d briefly called in at Le Havre in our P21 Saffie after traversing the Seine Bay with a PSSA rally. In 2024 the Dutch dream came true and we sailed from Southampton to Amsterdam and back. After countless chats with association members that had been to the Netherlands before, three boats set off. Why choose 2024? Well, it wasn’t for the fine weather, but no matter. The trigger was that six of us were now retired and able to take a seven weeks cruise. We allowed for

• One and half weeks to go from Southampton to the Netherlands
• Four weeks to explore the canals and lakes of the Netherlands
• One and a half weeks to return from Netherlands to Southampton

This timing worked well, and included some days stuck in port where the screaming rigging drowned out the sound of the screaming credit card.

 

A few tips

• You will not need a dinghy but you can get much use from bicycles if you are able to carry them. We also used an inflatable kayak, but just once.
• Bridge lights show red and green to show that opening is imminent and boats should be ready to make swift passage. Sometimes it was more than ten minutes after red+green that the bridge opened.
• It seems to be the norm that once a lifting bridge has opened a little, sufficient for mast clearance on one side, yachts proceed as the bridge continues to lift
• It’s normal to nose in right up close when berthing at right angles to a pontoon. As the pontoon cleats are well left and right, so more pulling sideways than forwards, you will need very tight bow lines to stay close to the pontoon.
• The lines to box poles need to be quite long. We used our shore lines. Your regular lines may suffice if on the long side.
• Harbour masters suggest lifting fenders onboard before docking in a box, so they don’t get caught on the poles. Poles are always wood so will not damage toe rail or hull.
• There is plenty of depth to berth stern to, with ample depth for the rudder

 

 

Our ports of call were:

 

Port	Notes	Nights
Southampton	Departed Deacons Marina
Gosport	Haslar marina Gosport. Rendezvous w Sophia P275 & CânYMôr Feelings 32	2
Brighton	Brighton Marina	1
Eastbourne	Sovereign Marina	1
Dover	Dover Marina	2
Calais	Calais Marina	1
Dunkirk	Grand Large Marina. Plenty to see in smart Dunkirk.	1
Oostende	Royal North Sea Yacht Club, in the heart of the flourishing city	1
Vlissingen	VVW Schelde and entry to Netherlands. Short walk to historic city. V friendly.	2
Middelburg	Middelburg marina. In the heart of the ancient city	2
Veere	Haringvreter Island (with deer on it) free landing stage	1
West Veerse & N Sea	Day trip. Free landing stage to explore North Sea dam and beach.	0
Veerse Meer Sabbingepla-at (small) Isle	Free landing stage on an island in tranquil Veerse Meer	1
Goes	Werf harbour. Very pretty and secluded marina and gardens.	1
Zeeland bridge	Passed under this mega bridge	0
Zierikzee	WV Zierikzee. A walk or cycle into the pretty old town.	1
Burghsluis	Burghsluishaven. A small isolated marina.	1
Bruinisse	Jachthaven Bruinisse. A large modern marina nowhere in particular.	1
Willemstad	Atmospheric and traditional quay in an ancient town	2
Dordrecht	Maarten Harbour. In the heart of the city.	2
Gouda	WV Gouda. A quiet backwater a short walk from town.	2
Haarlem	Haarlem yacht club. Out of town on a pretty lake with good food next door.	2
Amsterdam	Sixhaven Marina. Perfectly located inexpensive well-kept marina close to city	4
Leiden	Marina Gemeentehaven Leiden (outside on river bend). Town run.	2
Krimpen	Algerabrug waiting piles after missing last Sunday bridge lift	1
Alblasserdam	WV Alblasserdam. Small tranquil harbour run by volunteers.	1
Sint Annaland	Marina. Large, modern with facilities and a beach.	1
Haringvreter ‘Deer Island’	Island landing stage. Peaceful.	1
Vlissingen	VVW Schelde. Back to the very friendly Pete + club with drinks & hot snacks	2
Bruges	By ferry and bus	-
Oostende	Royal North Sea Yacht Club (open this time, Historic and well located.	1
Calais	Marina waiting buoy. Did not go ashore. Free.	1
Dover	Modern marina reasonably close to town.	1
Eastbourne	Sovereign Harbour. Smart. Fuel. Shops.	1
Brighton	Marina. Out of town but plenty of busses. Supermarket and Spoons onsite.	5
Southampton	Deacons, top of River Hamble. Home again.	-

 

 

My cruise story is taken from my diary. Please excuse short form notes and mixed tenses.

 

DAY 1 - Tuesday 21st May - Deacons (Hamble) to Gosport (Haslar Boatfolk marina)

What a gloomy day for an exciting occasion with much trepidation. We mainly motored in light NE winds on a calm sea. A very pleasant start, especially when we headed to the nearby most excellent Great Wall restaurant with Roger and Helen from Cân Y Môr and Peter and Jenny from Sophia. The restaurant staff were on the ball, witty and gave us a great time. The food was excellent, coming in multiple modest portions and offering great value for money and super food. Early to bed ready for an early start next day.

 

DAY 2 - Wednesday 22nd May - stay in Gosport due to much wind

After a quiet night, we awoke to an alarm and a knock on the cockpit. It’s Roger. “Have you seen the updated weather forecast?”. Much surprise wind. Back to bed. Later we’re up for a bacon roll and an expedition by ferry to Gunwharf Quays ‘outlet’ stores. After purchasing just a coffee, it was off to Gosport High Street for a Spoons lunch. Ate curry on board. The wind has eased and the sky has cleared. Promising for tomorrow. Peter called ahead to Brighton Marina to ensure there’d be space for us during their dredging operation. Alarm set for 4.25am.

 

DAY 3 - Thursday 23rd May - Gosport (Haslar) to Brighton (Premier Marina)

Up at 0425. Departed 0500. Calm settled weather. A sunny sunrise before it disappeared into a layer of cloud. Set out via the submarine barrier dolphin. Mainsail plus genoa plus engine as we had a long way to go. Later, clouds broke up and sunshine ensued. After a steady journey to the Looe channel, we spotted a dolphin by the red Looe buoy. It swam around us a bit leading to uplifted holiday spirits. The Looe channel was a bit lumpy but not for long. As we passed Brighton Pier, the wind was up and we were doing around 5 knots. Avoiding the dredger, we entered the calm waters of the marina. We had arrived just after noon after a brisk journey. Gin and tonic in Sophia! The marina chandlery had the rudder hold down cleat I wanted. Then Spoons and bed. It already felt like a long way from home. With chandlery, Wetherspoon and huge Asda supermarket, Brighton Marina has much to offer.

 

Brighton verdict - a sheltered marina with all facilities and a legendary town to visit.

 

DAY 4 - Friday 24th May - Brighton to Eastbourne (Premier Sovereign harbour)

Waking up to a calm day and sunshine, we departed Brighton at 8.30am at low water. Navigating out of the shallow marina, we first waited to pass a dredger then exited into windless and glassy sea. Engines on and head east while admiring the many chalk cliffs. After locking into the impressively large Eastbourne marina, we refuelled at the fuel pontoon conveniently just inside the lock gates. Eastbourne is nicely spaced between Brighton and Dover, thank goodness. The lock operates 24 hours and has a pontoon to make tying up easy. Water forces are gentle - you can relax.

 

Eastbourne verdict - a huge modern welcoming marina. The smart town is a way off but easily reached by foot or by bus.

 

DAY - 5 - Saturday 25th May - Eastbourne to Dover (Dover Marina)

Alarm 6.30am, engines on 7.20am and into the lock at 7.30am. This was a popular departure time but it was no problem to raft up in the lock. Today was sunny from the start, with no clouds but much dew. Sea glassy. ETA 4pm but that’s ignoring any adverse tide due later. As we passed Hastings, we saw two separate seals way offshore by Hastings. One followed for a while. 9am and still windless. The Lydd firing ranges we’re active today and their range boat asked us to keep more south, which wasn’t much out of our way. We kept close to the shore to ‘admire’ Dungeness power station, passing at 1156. We arrived in Dover to a huge cross current at the mouth entrance but my 9HP Yanmar managed a ferry glide and then shot in. I thought I was aiming our flotilla towards the new marina but took the wrong direction. Dover radio kindly told Cân Y Môr they were heading the wrong way, while following me. That’s what happens when you transmit on AIS but your friends do not. We took three neighbouring berths in the large and modern marina and then enjoyed a walk in the sun to Mullins Yard pub, overlooking the inner marina. What a brilliant buzz. We sat in glorious sunshine while drinking German Weissbier. The holiday feeling was strong. Ideally we would leave early the next day but decided to be cautious given the weather forecast.

 

 

DAY 6 - Sunday 26th May - stay in Dover

Sue, Jenny, Peter and Roger walked to Dover castle and had a good time. Normal admission price was a ridiculous £39 each but Civil Service Club membership brought it down to £9. Later, Helen and I walked up to The Curve dockside performance area to join many people enjoying a live band. Returning from the castle, the others stopped in town at the Hoptimist brew bar in town and called me to join them for a stout. We ate Sue’s gammon pasta together on Cân Y Môr and planned a 9.15am departure to suit entry to Calais in flood.

 

Dover verdict - a large and modern marina a short walk from a town that has seen better days. Beautification efforts are underway.

 

DAY 7 - Monday 27th May - Dover to Calais (Calais Marina)

Disaster. Roger on Cân Y Môr damaged his back while preparing for departure. Not knowing if his recovery would be days or weeks, Vol-au-vent and Sophia set off, sadly leaving Roger and Helen behind. We cast off around 10am as the morning rain was easing. Wind was quite breezy. Under genoa and engine, the sea was very unpleasant and lumpy in seriously wind over tide conditions and there was adverse current apart from the last half hour or so. Tip: ignore almanac advice on when to depart Dover for Calais. You can arrive in Calais anytime and wait on the many sheltered buoys outside the marina. Instead, first plan your timing to avoid wind over tide in the channel and then make the most of the tides. Approaching Calais, we called for permission to enter the port. That was granted and where the port splits at its entrance, we took the right fork by turning right after passing the right trestle pier with a green marker on it. We arrived outside the marina at 1500 and took one of many large white waiting buoys. Calling the marina on VHF we learned that the bridge into the marina would open at 1538 local time. Perfect. Now it was time to get stamped into the EU by the Police Aux Frontières. I explained this in an earlier newsletter article. While the border police were open for business, many, but not all, establishments / shops close on a Monday. We ate in the Main Street at Le Chill. Had duck and charcuterie board. Blond beer. All very satisfying. The marina charge was €28. It is not a fancy marina but it does the job and the staff are very friendly. We came to Calais from Dover as it is impossible for British passport holders to check into the EU at Dunkirk, unless you take a €100 taxi ride. Looking ahead to Dunkirk, we saw we could enter and exit anytime and there was no need to contact port control. So we would depart Calais next day when the tide turned in our favour.

 

Calais verdict - a well sheltered marina that has seen better days but the town is trying hard to spruce itself up.

 

DAY 8 - Tuesday 28th May - Calais to Dunkirk (Grand Large Marina)

A printed sheet in the Calais capitainerie window showed many scheduled openings for each day. Fortunately, the 0359 bridge life functioned as advertised. More than ten minutes before scheduled opening, a yellow light joined the red light. Then it went back to red, sirens sounded, the bridge opened and the lights went to green. Off we went. Calais port radio said to exit quickly while there were no ferries about. I followed my plotter route out of the harbour, lights on in the dark. Reaching the outer harbour we turned right towards Dunkirk. Wind was light, around six knots, enough to make a difference and steady the boat. Immediately outside Calais port was a bit lumpy but not too bad. The current for the first half of the journey gave us a lot of extra speed. The harbour breakwater swell died down and most of the journey was in lovely calm waters. The North Sea sounds scary but so far so good. It was dark for well over an hour and then we witnessed sunrise. The wind started behind and then moved to a reach but still pushing us along well. The tide push eased after half way. Passing west Dunkirk and moving on to East Dunkerque took ages as the large structures made it seem that we were stationery. There were no lobster pot markers or shallows. A nice easy route until a surprise. The long run in to East Dunkerque is marked by a mix of buoys and cardinals. Just south of one cardinal was an evil wreck of a submarine sticking well above the water. Next time we will obey the cardinals!

 

Arriving in Dunkirk - Turning into the port by the big lighthouse there was a clear run in. Follow the left wall and come to a sign on the left inviting you into Grand Large Marina. Grand it may be but it certainly isn’t fancy. But it worked for us. Berth on the long pontoon, not inside in the finger berths. There’s no current. The office is up the ramp, turn left towards the gold building. Enter by the flowerpot and go upstairs. If arriving early and the office is closed, be sure to leave someone on the water side of the gate to let you back in. The nearby famous beach is handy and smart, and for everything else there is are free bus services C4 or C4a. Both go to beach and town (opposite directions). If you fancy a trip to nearby Gravelines, take the C4a, every 20 minutes. In other words, beach, marina, town centre, Dunkirk evacuation museum and Gravelines are all on the same C4 / C4a bus route, noting that Gravelines needs the C4a. The marina offers 24h self service fuel right next to the long visitor pontoon. It was happy to take my credit card. The visitor pontoon has plenty of power sockets. Press the button above the socket to turn it on. Press it again when it goes off after a day. There’s no charge. There are also plenty of water taps and a loo pump-out next to the fuel berth. The Grand Large restaurant in the marina is permanently closed. The card key that opens the marina pontoon gate also operates the door to the showers and toilets.

 

Seals ahoy - While in Dunkirk, we met P335 Baby Beluga, the very last Parker yacht to be built. It’s great to bump into members like this. Owner Howard and crew were very chatty and pleasant, based in Woodbridge close to Pat and Pam of Phun, whom we’ve met several times. It was funny to compare my ‘gosh, I’m actually in Dunkirk’ feeling with Howard’s lovely calm matter-of-fact attitude to being here.

 

Around Dunkirk - Dunkirk is smart and great for exploring. Buses are free and frequent here. We first took a C4 bus to the beach area. The weather was rainy so we did not stay. We then took the bus to the centre and saw how the harbour is vast and stretches into the heart of the town. There are two UNESCO listed towers / belfries, and the tourist office is in one of them. The streets have fancy shelters with reflecting mirrors and you can feel a real effort to make the city smart. After walking around in the rain we took the bus back towards the marina but got off at the Dunkerque 1940 museum. Plenty to see there and reasonably priced. It was still raining afterwards so we took the C4A to Gravelines, which has a harbour we might use one day. This is the only fortified town in France still completely surrounded by water. It was a pretty town. We walked into the citadel from the bus terminus, looked around the square and visited a bar. On the return bus we got out at bus stop ‘Synthe’ and enjoyed a little shopping at huge Auchan supermarket. We retired early to catch up on sleep lost in the morning.

 

Dunkirk verdict - a well-kept town that is a very pleasant visit.

 

DAY 9 - Wednesday 29th May - Dunkirk to Oostende (Royal North Sea Yacht Club)

After a night of howling winds and slight bobbing, but still snug and comfortable, I awoke at 0730 to much less wind but the annoying sound of nearby machinery. The skies are dull and the wind still has further to drop. We would depart at 2.30pm after refuelling. Before that we strolled along the path to the historic and very sandy Dunkirk beach. The promenade is really smart and modernised and lined with tempting cafes and eateries. It is a good place to visit. We enjoyed coffee at the Red Rock cafe with chairs over the sand. There is a good view to the east so you can see what sea conditions lie ahead. Some old buildings survived the war and are to be admired. We departed for Oostende one hour before the tide turned. A tad lumpy outside Dunkirk but not too bad. We soon settled down for a straightforward and uneventful downwind motor genoa to Oostende. Oostende approach is a little overwhelming as it is hard to understand what you are seeing. Trust your plotter and you will be fine. Best to obey cardinals when approaching harbour as there is a visible wreck shoreside. The yellow box on a pole is a distraction you can safely ignore on the far side of the final approach. A chunk of cross tide at entrance but no problem for my wee engine. The Royal North Sea Yacht Club is easily found on the right thanks to clear signs. Except that it was closed for the day. How do we escape the pontoon? Follow the QR code posted on the pontoons and you are led to a web page. There you can hand over your money and get a gate code. We ate at the nearby bistro. Now in Belgium, the food was exceptionally good. What a treat. Depart tomorrow at 11am, punching into tide to begin with, as you can’t reach the Netherlands on one tide.

 

Oostende verdict - not a dull ferry port but a blossoming town that looks smart and is great to explore. Surprisingly good beach and centre.

 

DAY 10 - Thursday 30th June - Oostende to Vlissingen (VVW Schelde)

After a good sleep, with no real noticeable rocking, we woke to the sound of very early morning chatter at the adjacent fish market. Sue went to the nearby bakery to get breakfast treats. Then the four of us strolled into town. Surprisingly the town centre is just SW of the dock. Exit the marina, turn left and look for a small signpost where arrows point to shopping and tourist information. The shops were interesting but did not open until 10am and we were there before then. The large market was more than enough to entertain us. The high street walk ended near the port interior and wondrous lifting bridges and locks.

 

Back onboard, we prepared for an 11am departure and left on time. The weather was dull and overcast, with a steady force 4 wind on the beam, with waves coming from left and behind, making for a rolling journey steered by hand. We had the main up for the first time in a long time, with two precautionary reefs, and half genoa going to full genoa later. As the tide was against us at first, the engine was on except for the last hour. I’d hoped the beam wind would have resulted in beam waves, but as the seas were from behind, we did have wind over tide conditions but it was all bearable even if it did go on for hours on our 29 mile journey.

 

Passing Zeebrugge, there were cardinal marks everywhere. It was no problem to ignore them all and follow the course I’d previously plotted. The water was consistently about 6m deep. There was a fair bit of ship traffic about but we passed without incident. Peter’s AIS monitor was useful to check if any ships were exiting.

 

On entering the huge Dutch Westeschelde inlet, the ship traffic turned into the wacky races. Ships appeared from every direction and went in every direction, seemingly ignoring buoyed channels. Not to worry. Once almost opposite Vlissingen, where the canals start, we moved across to the north side, passing the narrow entrance to Deruyter harbour on the sea side of Vlissigen, facing the Westeschelde sea inlet. As the wind the next day was forecast to be up again, we decided to enter the canal network now so we’d have an easy time the next day. All this time we were listening to port VTS on VHF 9. You do not need to contact them, just monitor.

 

It was a wonderful feeling to realise that we had made it to the Netherlands. Looking back, the trip from Dover had been plain sailing apart from the very lumpy crossing from Dover to Calais. The weather was not particularly settled or warm but nevertheless we had come this far without any scary moments. Little did we realise that this point also marked the end of expensive berthing charges in the U.K. and the channel ports. Celebratory beers ahoy.

 

We turned north into the start of the canals inlet. Mmm, there are some jolly big ships ahead in this so-called canal. A large sign for the up-front lock indicated channel 18. I called “Vlissingen lock” but there was no reply. Later a voice advised, in English, that our two yachts could take the starboard smaller lock. Ah yes, I’d forgotten that. Anyhow a large trawler was heading for the bigger lock so it’s good we didn’t follow it in. Inside our leisure lock we saw three things:

• a very long square section floating log that would rise and fall on chains, and hold the hull off the wall
• as expected, bollards set into the wall at different heights
• the chains of the log that could also be used to secure a rope loop

In other words, locks are not scary. While waiting, a friendly lock keeper asked where we were going. I think he was going to explain how further locks and bridges would open in sequence but when he realised we were headed for VVW Schelde just around the corner, he instead lowered a large bucket. Blimey, I thought, he wants a big donation. But no. Inside was a helpful canals guide, in English. I love the Dutch.

 

In the event, the rise in height was modest and the current within the lock was minimal, almost nothing. The gates opened, the light went green and we were off. The other side of the lock was a mass of huge basins and some mega yachts in for maintenance. It was now about 6pm, seven hours after we departed. Taking the gentle curve to the right, at the third basin we saw flags and ‘VVW’ and entered. We were to berth in many ‘VVW’ in the weeks ahead. These are community boat clubs, often run by volunteers and sometimes with extensive facilities. Meanwhile, who was this waving to us? Crikey, PSSA member Dirk had driven 100 miles from Eindhoven to greet us. Thank you Dirk! Then the fun began.

 

We aimed for a box mooring, taking it in turns to miss the poles with our lines; fail to thread the rope through the metal riser bars, if present; fail to have sufficiently long lines. But all bad things come to an end, and it is always good to laugh at yourself. After about four attempts at docking, with many people gathered around us to assist, the harbour master suggested moving to a smaller box. This one did not have risers and the friction from just a looped rope was surprisingly high, needing a decent amount of engine thrust to inch forward. Eventually we were secure, nose in, and learned a tip that crossing the ropes at the back, once berthed, helped keep the boat central. To get the bow up close is tricky as the angle to the shore is more sideways than forwards. It might be an idea to add lines to the central cleats and pull forward from there. Seeing plenty of power outlets, we were back in civilisation. WiFi was good throughout.

 

The recent solitary rain showers had stopped and Dirk came onboard for drinks. We were very pleased to see him after previously connecting at the AGM in St. Malo. The five of us enjoyed cockpit life. Sue heated Dirk’s gift of baked goods of sausage meat in pastry while we tried a sample of Beerenburg, a Dutch drink made by adding herbs to jenever, with about 30% alcohol. It should be taken neat. Thank you Dirk, much appreciated and it was a treat to be welcomed by you as we arrived. After that we moved to the nearby modest and basic club house and had dinner. The beers are bottled and pub food like bitterballen was on offer. These are a thick meat stew rolled into breadballs then fried. I had a bratwurst with apple and Sue had a toastie. Much boat chatter later, Dirk departed as he was imminently going to Croatia and more on holiday.

 

DAY 11 - Friday 31 May - stay in Vlissingen

Waking to nearby pile driving and rain, it was time to shower and visit the handy washing machine and tumble dryer. The VVW Schelde is reminds me of Eling quay - a sleepy basic backwater run by ordinary people. The shower block reminds me of Newport IOW, but a bit roomier. Mooring is €24 per night including power and showers. Time to set off for town, a short walk away. We started by the bridge over the canal that leads north to Veere. It opened to let two yachts through. When the road opened an army of bicycles crossed at once. We were definitely in the Netherlands. Turning left to follow the edge of the basin took us to a tall ships festival which was being setup ready for the weekend. Stalls and music adorned the quay. Continuing to town we enjoyed the architecture, the brick streets and pavements and Dutch sights. Today was market day, lining two streets. We met Jenny and Peter and took a pancake and waffle lunch in a restaurant named after the partner of Admiral de Ruyter. We continued to the de Ruyter harbour, with its narrow entrance and large pilot boats. Turning towards the seafront we passed a mini German WW2 submarine then went in and up a working windmill, free of charge.  After that we headed to an old courtyard built to house the poor. Aim for Cornelia Quakshofje or

Zeemanserve 48 Torenstraat / Korte Zelke. After a good explore, it was back to the boat to eat onboard and then sleep.

 

Vlissingen verdict - your entry to the Dutch canals, this was the first of many perfectly preserved fine old towns we were to visit. A major town with beautiful streets, gorgeous intact ancient architecture and many pedestrian streets, there is so much to enjoy. The VVW is very well sheltered and handy for town. Do apply your insect repellent. This was one of only two places where I was bitten. To make up for that, the harbour master is one of a kind. You will not meet a friendlier host.

 

DAY 12 - Saturday 1st June - Vlissingen to Middelburg (town marina)

We left a bit early for the 1042 bridge but better safe than sorry. Exiting the box mooring was ok in strong winds. While waiting by the bridge a motor boat and two other yachts showed up. We listened on channel 22. Further on a voice from a loudspeaker asked waiting yachts to close up but apart from that there was no other interaction. For many days, all the locks and bridges we were to encounter we operated remotely and were monitored by cameras. Long gone are the days of placing money into a clog lowered on a string. Once through the bridge, our little flotilla averaged  4.5-5 knots but had to wait at next bridge. The so-called ‘blue wave’ synchronised our passage through the bridges ahead, with just a little wait here and there. The depth was three meters at side and six in middle. With the keel halfway down, we did not run aground through the trip. This morning was one of my strongest memories. The wind was howling. The rain was right royally pissing down. Yet here we were on flat water appreciating the joy of canals. Wrapped up in oilies from tip to toe, I was happy as a pig in shit. We had arrived in canal land. This short canal, heading north to join Vlissingen to Veerse Meer via Middelburg, was about four times the width of a typical British canal.

 

Passing through the sizeable city of Middleburg there is an obvious left turn into the harbour area. Ahead of arrival we had discussed which of the many berthing areas we should choose. There’s no need, as we will see. Following other boats going in, we passed the impressive grey floating Jos Boone chandlery which we visited later. Then we saw a white waterside cottage type building. That’s the harbour office. Aim for that and take alongside boat parking either side of the nearby bridge. In Middelburg you don’t have to choose which marina or marina area. The harbour master will direct you to a spot and will come out of his office to open the appropriate bridge. The pontoons are decent and have loads of electricity sockets. WiFi is very slow. The town is short walk away. Middelburg has a very pleasant set of pedestrian streets, interesting buildings and a lively buzz. There was a large market on Saturday. Very enjoyable. The Dutch cities on the Dutch canals were exceeding my expectations.

 

Around 2.30pm Wim from Belgium, P235 owner, came to meet us. He is a fun guy, very smart, witty and full of wisdom. He kindly brought two sets of very rare monastery beer, one very strong and another even stronger. Wim is great company and a really down to earth guy. What a treat that both Dirk and Wim had gone out of their way to make us feel so very welcome. Camaraderie at its best. After much cockpit chit chat and drinks, we all walked to the nearby floating chandlery. The Vlissingen chandlery opposite the VVW Schelde had hardly anything useful. The Middelburg floating chandlery is much better and things you don’t see may be in their stock room below. A hinge on our loo seat had broken and they had exact replacement hinges in stock. Most excellent. We also bought charts and a ball fender. The lady owner goes out of her way to help you find what you want. This was the best chandlery we found in all of our travels. I hope your McLube worked well Wim.

 

After dropping our purchases at the boat we set off to town to rendezvous with my friend and ex-work colleague Han, his wife Jans and dog Olly the Collie. On this cold day we had drinks in the cafe at Markt 77, seven of us in total. The drinks were fine and the bill huge. After wandering around we were shivering from the cold and then found a cafe with beer, street food and indoor seating. After walking back to the boats with our friends, it was time for goodbyes and to put the heating on.

 

DAY 13 - Sunday May 2nd - stay in Middelburg

After a night of howling winds but motionless boat, the skies are grey. The sun is due at 11am and better weather will creep in. Exploring Middelburg is great in itself, with plenty of see, old and new. A huge bonus was having around thirty choirs in town, some small, some large. Most rotated around different venues and we were free to wander in and out at will. One choir toured the circular city canals, performing from their boat. There was lovely festival atmosphere. Highly recommended.

 

Middelburg verdict - a wonderful ancient and well preserved city that will entertain you for hours on end. Glorious.

 

DAY 14 - Monday 3rd June Middelburg to Verse Meer (Haringvreter island)

Saying goodbye to Middelburg and also Sophia, who were briefly hopping back to the U.K. to meet friends over from Australia, crew Vol-au-vent prepared our boat for departure then took the 1015 bridge opening. Two accompanying motor boats shot off at 5.5 knots and later four yachts caught up. Just north of Middelburg Island there was just one lock, opening on demand, where you tie to horizontal ropes across chunky flint walls. Our new fat fender saw its first action. Soon the canal opened into Veerse Meer, an expanse of water big enough to please while being small enough to be quaint. We turned left and circled clockwise, viewing the two small islands to the west before going ashore on the NE side of Mosselplaats. We went alongside a pontoon big enough for a 40M boat. It was just us. Two other boats were docked elsewhere. The island was tranquil with just the sound of birds and me cursing flying insects. After a quick lunch we walked around the tiny island.  On each side was cluster of loo, rubbish bin and glass recycling bin. All this and you can stay two nights for free in this tranquil haven.

 

We then crossed the meer to Veere and found a very long pontoon, free from 10am to 5pm. Veere is a pretty little old town that can be done in under an hour if you want a quick visit. Later, Cân Y Môr stayed here for several days. At top of the boat ramp, opposite two baby canons, enter through a large brown door into a courtyard and the main part of the picturesque town. After a stroll around we returned to the boat in blazing sunshine. Leaving Veere pontoon, we sailed (with sails!) between the islands, ghosting along slowly.  Returning to the mid lake (meer) islands, we passed north of Haringvreter island then turned in to a large landing stage area. There were just four boats including us, with room for many more. Loos and recycling / rubbish collection here too. Out with the solar panel out for first time. A tea break then off on a deer hunt as there is an island deer population. Before the west end of Veerse Meer was damned from the North Sea, seals would come to this island and eat their catch. Haringvreter means ‘herring eating’. We ate in the cockpit for the first time in a calm warm evening.

 

Haringvreter island verdict - a pretty green and quiet island with free berthing on a landing stage. You can swim here too.

 

DAY 15 - Tuesday 4th May -  Haringvreter to West Veerse Meer and back to Sabbingeplaat Island

After a totally silent night, just one other boat remained. We woke to a grey sky with medium height clouds and a pleasant temperature in light winds. We can now hear the musical bells of Veere’s clock tower. Today we explored Veerse Meer and went west to the end. The other side of the sea wall is the North Sea. The wind is gentle from the south. We sailed at three 3 knots. The wind picked up through the morning. At the end of the lake we found a free landing stage. It had three meters of depth and just one other boat was there. We went ashore, past a cafe and toilets and then through a tunnel to the other side of the busy road then up stairs over the dune to find the North Sea, looking calm, and an enormous beach. Very many cyclists were on the wide bike path on top of the sandy dam. We walked along the beach, mostly on a boardwalk, between two restaurants before climbing another set of stairs back to the top of the dune. There’s no litter anywhere and you could see facilities to support large crowds later in the season. After eating cheesy chips so we would blend in with the locals, we returned to the boat under a cloudy and hazy sky but it was still warm. By this time, Roger had recovered and he informed me that he had arrived in Dunkirk. Back on board and we headed east along Veerse Meer in strong winds.  Keeping to the south shore, we saw deer on our deer island, at last. We motored and motor sailed SE until the meer turned NE then we continued under genoa only at 4-5 knots. It’s a bit like lake Windermere here. There were many summer homes and harbours, all very smart. The sailing was very pleasant. We decided to stop at Sabbingeplaat island. It is in the shallows but we didn’t touch bottom. Alas there are no leeward jetties. The bows were blown on by the very stiff wind but no damage was done. We were  exposed but with the ball fender protecting the bow we were safe and the motion was minimal. Time for tea and then to get ready for F7 winds overnight.

 

Sabbingeplaat Island verdict - a tranquil island, when there isn’t a gale, with a quay, for a free quiet night

 

Day 16 - Wednesday 5th June - Sabbinge to Goes (Werf harbour)

Crikey. What a wild night. The wind was screaming. A chop was bouncing us on and off the quay and the waves slapped against the hull. The high winds lasted a long time and then down came the rain, lots of it. Fortunately the fenders didn’t lift out of place and we were fine even if the noise was disturbing. Up at 5.49am to get the boat going so we make the entry time for Goes morning lock opening. The wind was now modest but cold. We saw many more boats in harbours and holiday homes in this east part of the Veerse Meer. Some positive current too. Our first lock, Zandcreeksluis, was a smooth-sided lock with inset rings for lines. No or little up or down. Clever roundabouts lights divert traffic across one of two bridges according to which lock bridge is open. Now we had exited pretty and twee Veerse Meer into the Oosterschelde, a vast expanse for water with container ships on the opposite side in the far distance. Here it was 47 metres deep. After traversing to the other side of the Oosterschelde, we slowly approached the lock entrance to the Goes canal. As we exited, we saw a small and gorgeous canal and right in front of us an impossibly large barge waiting to get in. There was plenty of depth in canal. The speed limit is 3.5 knots but we were doing 2.4 as we can’t arrive in Goes before a 9am bridge lift after passing Wilhelminabrug. After waiting a while for the Ringbruk bridge, we turned left into Werf harbour. The Ringbruk opens on the hour 9-11. We came in at 10. The Werf is a beautiful ‘garden marina’ and certainly lives up to that, but it is not obvious where to go. I asked a guy cutting grass and he directed me to an alongside quay. We tied up and visited the office which is in the black and white cottage on the central mound. Costs: €14.50 per night plus €2.40 tourist tax for two, plus €3 for electricity, plus €2 for the first night lock fee. Total €21.90 for the night. A thousand times prettier than Solent harbours and it costs much less. The harbour master of this peaceful green paradise has a bit of Scottish in him.

 

We walked into town and along the canal to the town centre harbour, which is more expensive and less attractive than the Werf. The centre is filled with pedestrianised streets and the town hall and square are magnificent. The huge church holds an art exhibition. Quite a few shops are closed on a Wednesday and many eateries open at 1pm. There is a tourist office where you can pick up a map and several large stores and supermarkets. For cheap eats, head to Snackbar Andy in the main square, but only if you are happy with alcohol-free beer.  Panini, burger, toasties and more. Very good value. Market day is Tuesday. There is an Aldi over the bridge at the Werf marina.

 

Goes verdict - another pretty and historic town, approached via a small and beautiful canal. The Werf garden marina is a unique place to berth.

 

DAY 17 - Thursday 6th June - Goes to Zierikzee (WV Zierikzee)

With Sophia still in the U.K. visit their friends for a few days, we were to head north west and

Zierikzee to rendezvous again with my friend Han, further along at Burgsluis.

 

After a quiet night in pretty Goes, I had a morning surprise. While getting out for a shower I saw four adults climb into the canal for a swim. That tells you that they have decent water quality. As we exited via the 9am bridge lift, the sun was out and skies were blue. Leaving the pretty Goes canal and locks behind, we headed towards the centre of the big road bridge across the Oosteschelde. Under genoa and engine, proceeding with a light current on the last of ebb, we bravely passed under the bridge without bashing it. Phew. Next we entered Zierikzee canal. As well as looking somewhat uninviting, the water dropped to 1.5 metres in parts at low water, which is when we arrived. Where to berth was not totally obvious. My Water Kaart app suggested there is WV Zierikzee Marina, but we saw a continuous set of  moorings. We turned around and went back to a nice floating restaurant, on the left as you enter the canal and just past the lock gates. There is no lock as such. The gate is for flood prevention. We stopped at an alongside pontoon and went in to enquire. It turns out it was the smart clubhouse for WV Zierikzee. Payment is by QR code and showers etc. are in a doorway on the left just before the lifting bridge and tower.

We had arrived and we were able to stay at the alongside pontoon. The power box is a long way away but our long line reached. We took the bikes up the pontoon ramp without problem and first turned back along the canal side to look out over the Oosterschelde. Then we returned along the canal to the town centre. After passing fishing and work boats, the canal smartens and there are nice pontoons, and very many of them. Eventually, the canal side became really smart and you can berth up in the attractive ancient city centre. There is an inner harbour after a bridge. The somewhat basic looks of the outer canal are a real contrast to the city end. It’s very smart, has a great vibrancy and wonderful buildings. It was also market day and there is oodles of pavement cafe and restaurant life. I can recommend a visit to Zierikzee. We stopped at Concordia coffee house for coffee, tea, apple cake and kibbling (fish bits). After we enjoyed cycling around town we went around the town ring canal and town centre again. Back at the boat it was a sunny ending in the cockpit. At last.

 

Strange things about the Netherlands:

• Some restaurants do not take credit cards
• Few cyclists wear helmets
• Every few minutes you hear or read ‘lekker’ (tasty)
• There is no litter
• All shop units are occupied
• Even Dutch youth can afford to own electric bikes

 

Zierikzee verdict - another historic centre well worth a visit. Don’t be put off by the dull stone-lined canal approach.

 

DAY 18 - Friday 7th June - Zierikzee to Burghsluis (Burghsluishaven)

This leg was a 10 mile hop in order to visit friend Han again. He keeps a caravan in the area in Spring. It’s tidal here. Greeted by a sunny morning after a very quiet night, we romped along at 5.8 knots along under genoa only.  A porpoise or dolphin greeted us just after Zierikzee exit. Upon turning closer into shore we saw a seal on land. Much land was visible at low water. We entered the small Burghsluis marina on our second attempt as it was shallow except for dead the centre of the entrance. While the area was quiet, there were fantastic cycling paths everywhere and a lovely village restaurant area near the camping. I joined Han and Jans at a down-to-earth golf club for a very liquid lunch and won a glass, bottle opener and key ring on a wheel of fortune while drinking Zot beer. Back to the boat for quick turnaround to visit my friend’s caravan then head to a fish restaurant. Terrible hay fever tonight.

 

Burghsluis verdict - a pleasant marina in the middle of nowhere, handy only for a stopover or to try the many cycle paths through the fields.

 

DAY 19 - Saturday 8th June - Burghsluishaven to Bruinisse (Jachthaven Bruinisee)

In a stiff wind, we set off to return to the Zeeland bridge and then Bruinisse. We motor sailed to the bridge, going much faster than planned and arriving well before I expected. As we were close to the 2pm bridge opening time we waited and then passed through. The rest of the journey was pleasant under sail alone. After clearing the last lock we headed around the corner to the yacht haven where the now-returned Sophia had checked us in, having come up from Middelburg. Boats reunited. Unfortunately, Sophia had left Middelburg the same day as crew Cân Y Môr had almost caught up. Alas, as Cân Y Môr approached Middleburg, the Middleburg bridge suffered a breakdown and their progress was thwarted for some days. They were never to catch up. Back in Bruinisse, we had a finger pontoon. For dinner we walked quite a way to a fish restaurant where I had a great chicken salad.

 

Bruinisse verdict - a huge modern marina where two large bodies of water connect. Nothing much locally but a village is a good walk away

 

DAY 20 - Sunday 9th June - Bruinisse to Willemstad (Willemstad town quay)

We left Bruinisse at 1030 and went around the corner to the big lock. With a strongish wind following us, locks were a bit tricky today. A sunny day with a wind building to a very stiff breeze by the end. We passed through three locks and under one very tall bridge. Pleasant sailing but a tad hairy at the very end. The last lock was interesting. We missed placing the back rope on a bollard in the lock. With the front attached, naturally the strong following wind turned the boat through 180°. We descended the lock pointing the opposite way to all the other boats. At least we could not see the other skippers smirking, ha ha. We escaped by letting the wind blow the bow around to point to the exit. Remember to hook the stern on first. A friendly harbour master at Willemstad offered us either pontoons in a basin or a quay in the inner harbour. The old inner quay is full of atmosphere, is very smart and is surrounded by pubs and restaurants with a real vibe. Aren’t we lucky.  Being early in the season there was space. I also got to use my plank as a barge board for the first time. It worked well. Even better, with no tide, lines did not need adjusting once they were in place. We had drinks at a charming quayside bar in the outside sunshine and then cooked onboard.

 

DAY 21- Monday 10th June - stay in Willemstad

Awoke in the night to the sound of creaking. Were our lines too tight on the quay? I got up to check and found they were fine. The noise was the barge board moving slightly against the quay wood pile.  No problem. It rained a little then stopped then restarted as consistent rain. Then I heard another noise and guessed it was a bird in the cockpit. It was. I brought the rubbish bag indoors. Heavy rain ensued and winds were very strong. Being stormbound on a canal is a whole lot better than being stormbound at sea, where you think about the swell the next day. We had a lazy day on board and around the town in-between showers (of rain, not the cleanliness type).

 

Willemstad verdict - despite visiting in poor weather, the charm of Willemstad impressed us all. How wonderful to visit a real and historic town quay in this beautiful compact historic town.

 

DAY 22 - Tuesday 11th - Willemstad to Dordrecht (Maartensgat harbour)

Woke to sunny skies with clouds soon developing. Sue visited the baker. We cast off into the very busy meer. By now, everything was getting bigger. Bigger canals, bigger meers and bigger shipping traffic. Under motor and genoa, to get as far as possible before the tide turns, we encountered wind over tide. Joined by many barges in this wide expanse of water, we marched onwards at 5.6 SOG and 5.3 STW with engine and stiff breeze. We went against tide all the journey. With the large amount of commercial traffic and some ship sized traffic. It was not the small pretty canal we had expected. Much rain and wind. We proceeded up the canal under engine and hugging the right bank to minimise adverse tide. I once thought a large barge was coming down with flashing lights, but it turned out to be leading lights. We eventually approached the large city of Dordrecht and its canal junction. We arrived at a huge lifting bridge at about twenty minutes past the hour and waited for the opening at 57 past. There is a cut and waiting area 500M to the south, by a large crane with a yellow jib. The rain stopped as we took the 1157 bridge lift and went through against a strong current. Boats pass in both directions under the bridge. We took the second right turn into Maarten harbour. Fortunately another boat was going through the bridge and we followed it in. The harbour master directed us to the back right corner alongside a pontoon. It was a tight squeeze but no problem in this current-free basin. We were stern to stern against Sophia. €17.90 per night, comprising €12.40 to berth, €3.50 for electricity and €2 tourist tax. Not bad, eh? Above us was a towering church with very active church bells that like to ring out every hour, even in the dark. I can sleep through anything. We toured the town following the red tour signs and seeing great historical buildings in the rain. Dordrecht has water, water everywhere with countless harbours and bridges. The tourist office provided information on how to cycle to the Biesbosch national park via water bus. We returned to the boats to enjoy some 10% beer that Wim had brought us earlier. Close to harbour we discovered and ate at restaurant La Cubanita. Entering the door there was a real buzz in the busy inside. We had a fixed price unlimited tapas menu and both variety and quality of food were fantastic. What a find. Brilliant.

 

DAY 23 - Wednesday June 12th - stay in Dordrecht

We woke after a quiet night despite a nearby road and loud church bells. It is dry and staying that way. Except it did rain. We cycled a very long way to a water bus (ferry) to the Biesboch national park and continued a short way to the museum. A tour boat was leaving shortly so we purchased tickets for both boat and museum. The tour boat was electric and pleasant but without any English commentary a lot of value was lost. Swans. Moorhens. Reeds. Not recommended. The return cycle had a few rain showers. Ate on board. Visited harbour office where very friendly and helpful Mrs Will advised the 8.45 local bridge to take the 1000 big bridge. Due to using heater and hot plate at the same time, our combo mains supply and battery charger failed. Or so we thought. It turned out that the marina power had tripped in our area.

 

Dordrecht verdict - the oldest city in Holland province, with water everywhere. Maartensgat was very hand for the town centre and it was also a good city to explore by bike. It would be even better if it wasn’t raining.

 

DAY 24 - Thursday 13th June - Dordrecht to Gouda (WV Gouda)

8.45 departure from Maartensgat. Harbour master Will, whose birthday it is today, kindly came to see us before the lift was due. After singing happy birthday to him, we were off. What a great stay we had at Maartensgat Dordrecht. The sun was shining and we set off for the first bridge, a large lifting bridge. The current was quite strong against us and I adjusted speed to try to arrive for the 10am lift. Despite going slowly as the current eased from its peak, we arrived early and waited, idling into the current. Soon we we were through and under genoa and engine to counter the current. The canal was modest in size but still hosted infeasibly large barges. The Dutch really do enjoy packing the largest of vessels into the smallest bodies of water. The wind picked up so it was a genoa motor to make progress. The second bridge had no timetable but opened around 20 minutes after we arrived. The third bridge opened as we arrived. I’m impressed. Sights along the way were: a glimpse of Rotterdam; a giant Noah’s ark; a hotel disguised perfectly as a ship. Entering Gouda seemed a bit industrial but we turned off into the WV Gouda and found a harbour master ready to receive us in his quiet backwater at a bargain €12.80, including power. Beat that. We cycled into town and headed for the market square and arranged a Gouda cheese experience and stroopwaffle (addictive caramel waffles) factory tour for the next day. The huge, really huge town square comprised an impressive gothic town hall, rebuilt in 1438, surrounded by eateries and cafes. With the sun shining for a change, we settled at café David’s to enjoy an ice cream. When coffee arrived we were thrilled to see coffee cups with real ice cream filled mini cones clipped onto the coffee cups - a world-first in tourist experience. Then we cycled to the Goudse Eend bar where we had a local hazy IPA. There are surprisingly few pubs in the Netherlands but we’d found one. Back to the boats and cheese and wine followed by playing Monopoly Go. We read the excellent English guide to Gouda and there is much to do. Sleep.

 

 

DAY 25 - Friday June 14th - stay in Gouda

After overnight rain we set off around 0845 to do the Gouda Cheese Experience. We parked our bikes and went in. We were the only visitors and had a great time in this high quality attraction. The staff were friendly and we learned everything about cheese. There was a question sheet, for adults, to ensure we were paying attention. It took a good while to get around and signs were in Dutch and English and our personal audio players were in English. In almost all other locations there has been no English. It’s not something the Dutch do. Another Dutch uniqueness is that all hand washing is in cold water only. After the tour, and sampling cheese of five different ages we exited to get our scores, to have a coffee and to receive a badge declaring we were cheese masters. What a great tour. We also bought some cheese, of course. After the cheese experience it was off to the Kamphuisen waffle experience. We were later than planned and Mrs Jobsworth wasn’t happy, demanding we return at noon. The woman running the place the day before was much more relaxed. We were happy to return at noon. The others went to see a church and I went to a cycle shop to get a bike rain cover as rain was a major feature of this holiday. Despite two opening bridges delaying my return, I made it. After a video introduction, I was surprised when a wall opened and behind was a production line. You’d never guess this from the small shop entrance. Another great tour, with samples and fun things to read and do, that I can recommend. After that we went to a pancake house and had chicken satay pancakes. Dutch pancakes ✅. Very good and filling. Then we cycled around the hexagonal canal, passing two windmills and a floating museum of many old barges. Back at the boat, it was sunny. After filling fuel cans at a nearby garage, more Monopoly Go then bed as heavy rain started.

 

Gouda verdict - a visit to Gouda is everything you would expect it to be and much much more. This is a city that remains in its prime and has plenty to give to the visitor. The ancient city centre is completely gorgeous and there is much to see and do.

 

DAY 26 - Saturday 15th June - Gouda to Haarlem (Haarlem yacht club)

Leaving Gouda to go north, there are two bridges in succession. First is large railway bridge. Huge waiting stage to starboard. It’s raining again. More pontoons on the north side. Free landing stage for <20m but further along before next bridge. After industrial size waterways we are back on a  pretty canal, small, with lovely houses down the left side. I should mention that the direct route to Amsterdam was closed for maintenance so we took the alternative route via Haarlem. There is much canal side parking north of Gouda. We are now on the Old Rijn. The canal is lined with houses both sides and has many bridges. It is still raining but only light rain now. 1038 big winds and sunny skies. 1105 arrived Kaagbrug. It did not open until 1227. While secured to a waiting set of piles, the wind blew at 27kts, then 29kts and peaked at 30kts. Thanks heavens for canals.  While using the waiting time to take an early lunch we witnessed a 36 knot gust. 1420 and heavy rain returns. The houses lining the canals become even more attractive - a lovely visual treat. Entering Haarlem, a fine ancient town, there were very many bridges in the heart of the city. Here we were not sure where to stop. There were canal-side moorings, not harbours and we passed through them all and popped out the other end of city. The wind was howling as we turned in to the Jachthaven and the box parking. We are unexpectedly miles from town but the club and club house are great. The harbour master and wife are super friendly and helpful. They even flew a Union Jack from their flagpole to make us feel welcome. Good shelter from waves in this lake that joins the canal via a cut. We ate in Pavillion Loef, a nearby restaurant. Excellent! Food and staff were wonderful. We passed through 32 bridges today. What we learned is that, using app aanuit.net (meaning in/out) you ‘tap in’ when starting your transit of the city and ‘tap out’ when you complete your transit. Water-side signs guide you.

 

DAY 27 - Sunday 16th June - stay in Haarlem

After a slow start after our long day yesterday, and there being no buses, we took a €24 taxi to Haarlem centre and were dropped off at a coffee shop. Coffee, croissants and pain chocolate ahoy. We then headed, in on/off rain, to the tourist office where we purchased a city centre map and a monuments walking tour app, each costing one euro. The tourist office is in the very large square hosting the large church. It was all very grand and the place had a good buzz. Jenny took the monument guide and walked us around buildings and the occasional canal. En route we passed many narrow and floral streets, including one with bright orange clothing strung up as art. It was a good tour. I can recommend it. After our long walk we headed towards the Ten Den house, like Ann Frank, but it was closed. We found a Jumbo supermarket and restocked, adding to Dutch gin already bought earlier. From there we ate at a nearby Poketeria restaurant. A poke bowl was a first for me, very tasty and so healthy. After that we headed for grand central station but it was a disappointing visit as we could only see part of one ticket hall. We returned to the boat by taxi to enjoy a sunny evening even if the rigging was still howling. Ate on Sophia.

 

Haarlem verdict - a very large ancient town with plenty of impressive architecture and much opportunity to explore. The Dutch are so good at preserving their history. The harbour master husband and wife at the Haarlem yacht club were so very welcoming. Although out of town, it is in a very pretty green lakeside area.

 

DAY 28 - Monday 17th June - Haarlem to Amsterdam (Sixhaven Marina)

We woke to a dry morning but with a puddle on deck. Set off at 0845 and quickly arrived at the pretty nearby lock. A small drop and a €3.50 fee but in exchange you get a biodegradable loo roll. Yes, really. The next bridge was much closer than I had imagined. It is a motorway bridge - the A9. After a few attempts we tied up on the nearby waiting pontoon. 0930 so a one hour wait for the bridge. It opens just three times a day. Stopping a motorway for boats is impressive and the Dutch take it in their stride. Peter went back to a larger pontoon. After the bridge we turned right into the large canal to takes us to Amsterdam. It’s very wide. Ships and barges make it look like we are at sea. It was unreal to see ocean liners berthed in inlets along this massive canal. We purred along in a following wind, with a little positive current and a helping genoa. This whole industrial area is quite unreal. It makes Southampton docks look small.  Approaching Amsterdam in sunny and breezy conditions, all around remained very busy. Our excitement ramped up as we saw Amsterdam station in the distance. Pinch arm. We really are about to arrive in Amsterdam. Ferries leapt out from the side but all waved a thank you. We crossed over to the Sixhaven side, on the ship canal opposite the station and city centre. A large Sixhaven sign reassuringly pointed us to a narrow entrance. We entered and tied up temporarily until being allocated permanent berths. The harbour office is right as you enter the harbour, in the direction of the two low chimneys. Pontoons look fresh and modern, and the place is surrounded by greenery. I have good feelings. Plenty of spaces here. I think it’s another WV marina. At €18 a night, including showers and electricity, for a perfect location in a capital city, I was delighted. If this is what going Dutch means, please sign me up.

 

We took the very frequent free ferry over to Central Station and walked through to the other side with a view to taking a canal tour. Problem: there are many canal tours to choose from. After browsing Trip Advisor we chose nearby Flagship Amsterdam. We had a choice of with or without drinks and cheese. We purchased two with and two without. The boat was gorgeous, with open roof panels. When we got going, good grief - we had struck gold. The young captain was lively, animated and great fun. He kept us informed and educated throughout the voyage. His charming assistants likewise. It was a great tour. No commentary was recorded, it was all live, all in English,  and totally engaging while being steeped in humour and facts. After that we visited Mike’s bike tours and booked a city tour for the next day at 1000. Then it was back to the boats to eat before setting off by bike to see the red light district. That was surprisingly hard to find without a guide.

 

DAY 29 - Tuesday 18th June - stay in Amsterdam

A dry day was forecast so we started with rain! Cycled to Mike’s tour, which may have also been A-tours and guide Christian from Canada, living here for nine years. We opted to use our own bikes. We covered many varied sites: a bio cafe that uses customer’s’ pee to grow plants, a Jewish memorial, Ann Frank house, museum quarter, zoo, bridges and more. Many varied sites on an interesting tour. We ate, no, indulged, in a recommended apple pie pub restaurant Het Papeneiland. We enjoyed huge apple pie and cheese toasties for lunch in this ancient cafe with very friendly service, fair prices, great beer and a brilliant atmosphere. We were also recommended Vennington for sandwiches. We cycled to the canal museum, a fancy setup in a grand old house. A good museum. Then we cycled to Dam Square, large with much going on. Unlike in all other Dutch cities and towns, cycling is not permitted in the very centre streets so we walked the bikes where necessary.

 

Amsterdam verdict - Berthing at Sixhaven is close to the city centre and so affordable. With its canals, many museums and fine architecture, there is plenty to entertain you. Sixhaven plus Amsterdam offer the most perfect combination for a fantastic visit by boat.

 

DAY 30 - Wednesday 19th June - bus tour north of Amsterdam

Gosh, thirty days away from home and boat life on canals is so easy. I could do this for months. Reviewing our time and location, we decided to make Amsterdam our turnaround point. Having explored Amsterdam with a guide and then independently, both by bike, we chose to spend today exploring up the coast by bus. We set off on foot just before 9am and took the ferry to the public transport ticket office in the station. All day tickets cost €12.50 and we certainly got our money’s worth. After taking the metro for two stops we took the 111 bus to the terminus in Marken. This was once was an island in the Zuiderzee, now reached by causeway, with traditional houses and a pretty harbour lined with cafes and old houses. Next stop Monnikendam on 1220 bus. Another pretty town and waterfront with its six hundred 600 year old lock. Onwards to Volendam with a very touristy and super busy water front. Could see Marken in the distance. Then Edam and visit to a cheese shop and good cheese exhibition with self-guided tour. Edam is pretty but there is not a lot to see. It has faded, unlike thriving Gouda. Then to Hoorn. The waterfront and historic harbour is quite a way from bus stop but worth a visit. Ancient but with less of a buzz. Now it is late in the day so we returned to Sixhaven by bus.

 

Verdict - north of Amsterdam - the best places today were Marken for a real traditional village, then Volendam for a lively touristic waterfront. Exploring by bus is very practical. You see and experience a lot in a day.

 

DAY 31 - Thursday 20th June - stay in Amsterdam

Another sunny day. We set off by bike to the famous flea market but nearly all the stalls were a bit tacky. After that we cycled around some of the five canals then left crew Sophia to head to the NEMO science museum via a club sandwich and salmon bagel at the recommended Vennington cafe. Although it was just a regular roadside cafe, it had a very friendly owner and great café food. NEMO cost €18 to visit and was very well put together. We had great views from the top floor garden then explored the many creative exhibits. A very good experience. Then it was back to the boat. Peter kindly joined me to head by bike to a garage with my 5+9.5 litre cans. In this regeneration area there are post industrial eateries, arts and we accidentally found a brewery. Good beer but expensive. After that it was back to the local supermarket, good and cheap in a somewhat rough area. Food on board then bike repacking and tidying ready to head to Leiden tomorrow at 0730. No rain all day and light winds.

 

DAY 32 - Friday 21st June - Amsterdam to Leiden (outside town harbour)

Jenny and Peter would stay longer in Amsterdam as their antipodean friends they returned home to see earlier were now visiting Amsterdam. Crew Vol-au-vent started heading south but taking a diversion to Leiden. We departed wonderful Sixhaven at 0730 under dull skies that promised to brighten later. There was a light headwind but no current as we headed west along the ship canal. SOG 5-5.2kts. 0908 we turn left from Nordzee canal into Zijkanaal, just missing a bridge lift at Buitenhuizer bridge. The bridge opened at 0930, giving us a safe thirty five minutes beyond ETA for the motorway bridge opening at 1030. 1107 we passed Haarlem yacht club, six yachts in convoy. Entering Haarlem again, it feels like we left Amsterdam moments ago. 1141 pass Haarlem windmill. The convoy is working well with the bridges. A lock man said to pay at the harbour office or using the in/out app. Early afternoon was cool and dull with spots of rain. Canal water 20°.

 

Arrived at Kaabrug 1445 before 57 lift. Rain! On the way to Leiden we passed through some lakes then started to approach the city. A number of open boats carried wedding groups, all huddled under umbrellas. The bridge team in the city were polite and obliging. We passed through four bridges. At the second bridge a sign announced “harbour full”. This was the council harbour where we intended to berth. It was still early in the season and our first experience of a full harbour. We phoned the harbour office. Instant relief! A very helpful man said we could go opposite. He even open the bridges for us then met us at the quay. We are on a quay on a canal bend. opposite the haven. It’s a great location. It has power and water, app controlled, and payment is also by the aan uit (in/out) app. You check in and check out. The harbour master was fun, engaging and super helpful. He explained everything. Meanwhile the rain has stopped. This was a very pretty and quiet area even though there was a small road alongside the canal.

 

DAY 33 - Saturday 22nd June - stay in Leiden

Sue went to shower and do laundry. Even washing machines are controlled by app. The sun was on and off, breezy and no rain is due. Bikes out and what a difference they make when exploring. The town high street shops were still closed despite it being a Saturday morning. We ended up by a large and vibrant market. I was treated to kibbeling, very good and tasty fried fish bits, for €5. Next: tourist office. I think there’s plenty here for a stay of a few days. We explored the rather excellent windmill Valk museum, a working mill that was built in just two and half months! After that we cycled to CORPUS, an exhibit, rather large, on Leiden university campus. We paid €25 each to enter the very grand building housing a model of human body you can walk through. Just as in the windmill earlier, the staff offered, without me asking, to store my bike panniers. So kind. Good English throughout. A very well done exhibition of the human body. After that it was back to the boat for tea and to cycle to Annie’s pub restaurant on the canal side in the sun. I had an Affligem beer and burger. Sue had Aperol spritz and salmon bagel. Great atmosphere in the sun. It was like being in a dream, surrounded by happy people and water.

 

Leiden verdict - an university town with links to Webster University in America, and the home of the Leiden jar. Canals everywhere, a truly beautiful centre and huge market days. Leiden is a very smart and attractive historic city, with canals throughout. A great visit and I’m so pleased we decided to call her.

 

DAY 34 - Sunday 23rd June - Leiden to Krimpen (overnight at Algerabrug) via Gouda

Awoke to a lovely sunny day and clear blue skies. Marvellous. The journey south through Kohdekerk and beyond was in a convoy of six boats, the others being motor boats. Very hot, at last, in sun and a gentle breeze. Kids were swimming in the canal. The Dutch love their open motor boats and many were out enjoying the canals. Rejoining our up-route at Alphen, we were treated to a house-lined canal. Very green, very pretty. Continuing through Albert Schweitzer, Hefebrug Gouwesluis and Boskoop bridges without delays, we observed so many boats out this Sunday. We were, at last, grateful for a few clouds to give a little shade. 1405 arrived at high bridge Waddinxveen and passed through at 1409. Now our convoy was reduced to just us and a Dutch sailing boat. A huge container barge came the other way. 1434 just missed twin railway bridges Gouwespoor. Next lift 1627. No current encountered at all today so far. After Juliana lock slight adverse current in a head wind, SOG 4.5. Still sunny at 1730. Now the fun begins. Arriving at Algerabrug at 1841 we see two red lights on this very large bridge. Our guide says the next opening is 6-6.45pm on demand. No - not on a Sunday. We called and learned that the next opening was at 9am on Monday. Fortunately we were tied up on waiting piles on a totally still evening. A free night.

 

Algerabrug verdict - unexpectedly spending overnight on waiting piles turned out to be very pleasant in the calm conditions. With open water behind us, even the views were enjoyable.

 

DAY 35 - Monday 24th June - Krimpen to Alblasserdam (WV Alblasserdam)

Our big bridge opened just after 0920. It was still calm and we could see reflections in the water. Continuing, we turned left away from Rotterdam and into an adverse current of one to two knots. After passing Noah’s ark we turned right into the Noord to head south. Peter and Jenny were now ahead of us after our detour to Leiden. We turned into the small Ablasserdam channel next to huge Oceanco buildings. Peter and Jenny were there to greet us and the bridge man arrived promptly and was most polite as we passed through and tied up to a finger pontoon. This was another member-run small but perfect formed basin. Peter had chosen this location for access to the world-famous, now we know about it, Kinderdijk, a well-preserved world heritage area with many history windmills. Peter’s choice of harbour turned out to be perfect. You can’t get closer to the windmills in a private boat, only by hotel boat or river bus. In perfect sunny weather, we settled in and prepared the bikes before setting off back up the Noord canal on the cycle path. About half way up we turned right and soon saw the very many windmills in the distance in a very green tranquil canal area. Though no windmills were operating, many seemed lived in and very well maintained. We cycled up and down admiring all the beautiful windmills in a luscious green surround. It was a highly memorable experience and cost nothing. The lovely bike ride was a bonus. Returning to town we stopped at a hotel café for beer and apple pie. After that it was a supermarket visit and then the idea to visit Rotterdam by bus. We took the bus and marvelled at how many bus lanes and traffic light priority lead to a speedy journey. We continued on the C metro into town. Rotterdam is undergoing massive regeneration and there is much work in progress. In a super new high building housing food shops and apartments I sampled some herring. Very nice and mission accomplished. After that we wandered around the somewhat tatty centre and saw an artificial surf lagoon in the centre. Then it was back to the food court for more kibbeling before returning to a hot boat for rum and coke.

 

Alblasserdam verdict - brilliant! The place to stop if you want to visit the UNESCO world heritage site of Kinderdijk to see the many preserved windmills that were used to pump out water from the area. You could take a long walk to the windmills but a bicycle is a perfect way to explore. The views are magnificent. Interestingly, the operator of the small bridge just before the small harbour, and the harbour master were very helpful to us even though neither spoke a word of English, which made for an interesting and fun change. These were the only non-English speaking Dutch folk we encountered. I don’t expect people to speak English - I’m pointing out that most do in the Netherlands.

 

DAY 36 - Tuesday 25th June - Alblasserdam to Sint Annaland (marina)

We were working our way back down south but decided to call in at Sint Annaland even though we didn’t know much about it. It’s flaming June and time to leave Alblasserdam water club. A great place. We went out of the harbour baby bridge with a motor boat which gave us half an hour to kill waiting for the very large Alblasserdam Road bridge opening at 10am. Two yachts waiting to pass in the opposite direction. I’m in all white clothes for sun protection - a pleasant change. Little current at first. Good tide push at Dordrecht. Two knots. Turn left into Volkerak. Into current now. A pleasant wide canal but featureless. Right turn at Kundert Industriak junction and plus 0.7 of a knot.  Holland Diepe, very wide here. Huge expanse of water. It was like being in the middle of an ocean. SOG 6.2. Turn left past Willemstad at 1314 and super sunny. Still good tide. Traffic was stopped as we approached Volkeraksluis at 1326. Just a short wait. On the other side, in Hellegat, about half a knot of positive current. Making very good progress so we are continuing to Sint Annaland. Called ahead to confirm berths are available. Wind is behind us but not enough to sail. 1543 just missed Krammersluis lock as it was full of boats we arrived. Out of lock 1637. No current other side. Saw a porpoise before turning left to Sint Annaland. Continuing down a very wide channel with a surprisingly strong two knot assist, Sint Annaland appeared in the distance. It is a sizeable modern yacht harbour with a small beach and holiday apartments and a Jumbo supermarket. The harbour master gave us berths right in front of his office and soon appeared on his bicycle to settle us in before pedalling off to watch Netherlands play Austria and unfortunately lose. It was time for full on tourism. Sue set off by canoe and the remaining three of us walked to the sandy beach for a swim (me) and a paddle. There is a vast expanse of water out there.  The boat measured water temperature at 20° here but it felt cooler. Back to boat and for the first time out came the bbq.

 

Sint Analand verdict - a holiday haven in a vast expanse of water. With a beach and all the facilities you could ask for, it is a very pleasant place to visit.

 

DAY 37 - Wednesday 26th June - Sint Annaland to Veersemer (Deer Island / Haringvreter)

Awoke to sunshine after a very quiet night. Supposed to be light winds but there is a bit of rigging whistle. Then supermarket time before heading towards Veeres meer. Very calm glassy water. 21°. Speed 4.9 STW/ 6.3 SOG in good current. Turned left before Zeeland bridge and the plotter showed a white area and ability to cut corner but my Water Kaarten app said to go wide. I cut the corner only to find it was a restricted area. Oops, that would have been a big fine if a patrol boat was about. Plenty of water between many withies and I promise I did miss the mussel nursery. Locking back into Veeresmeer it felt very busy and almost the end of an adventure but there was still a long way to go. This is the lock with two bridges over it. Lights at approach roundabouts direct traffic to the open bridge either side of the lock. Traffic keeps flowing. 1157 and going up. With plenty of space on the landing stage at Haringvreter we parked on a sunny afternoon and had another barbecue and then a swim in the warm water. Most of the other boats departed during the evening. Another peaceful and free night. Idyllic - that’s the word.

 

Haringvreter verdict - As before but now in the warmth, I cannot imaging a more attractive and peaceful berthing place. Why done’t we have these in the UK? Ah yes, I am in a lake. Maybe they do exist in some lakes. 

 

DAY 38 - Thursday 27th June - Haringvreter / Deer Island Veersemeer to Vlissingen

A sunny morning again with gentle breeze. Goodbye meer! Pausing to refuel at Middelburg, we learned about artificial diesel called gas-to-liquid. It is odourless. We also were able to get a new gas bottle. Departing Middelburg, we motored around corner to bridge and had a short wait in the heat. Well, we did dream of it and there it was. The barrier opened as expected at 1337. After a short wait at the second bridge, Schroeweg, we were on our way, returning to the VVW Schelde sailing club where our Dutch adventure had started. We were kindly given an alongside pontoon, i.e. not a box mooring, by Peter the ever-helpful harbour master. We cycled into town and had a beer and apple cake with Peter and Jenny who had walked into town. Cooked onboard then up to club for beer, bitterballen and Monopoly Go.

 

Vlissingen verdict - it was good to return to this wonderful city and its sailing club.

 

DAY 39 - Friday 28th June - stay in Vlissingen, bus to Bruges

Oh dear. We are close to the sea and it is time to look at weather forecasts once more on this sunny and very breezy day. No sailing today. Instead we walked to the Westschelde ferry and, armed with a €26 per head ferry and bus combo ticket from Vlissingen ferry desk, we set off for Bruges. It took just over two hours. The bus element is the longest but it is pleasant ride and you get to admire the Dutch and then Belgian countryside and towns. As the ferry traversed the huge inlet opposite Vlissingen, the Westschelde, the sea was rough and the ferry smooth. We saw a yacht bashing into the large swell and we were thankful we were not doing the same. We exited the bus in Bruges two stops before the railway station when we saw the large square on the left. Bruges is a lovely old city and a very popular tourist destination. Even in June it is heaving. Much atmosphere and buzz. We walked to Grote Markt, had a fixed price lunch then Sue and Jenny went their way while Peter and I set to work on an important matter -  an interesting tour of the Brugse Zot brewery. The brewed beer is piped 3.3km to the remote plant to be aged and then bottled. After that we had a deluxe waffle then a coffee while waiting for the 1648 bus to return to Breskens. A really sunny and pleasantly warm evening.

 

Bruges verdict - a delightful city overrun by tourists, like us. It’s easy to reach from Vlissingen and I can recommend a visit.

 

DAY 40 - Saturday 29th June Vlissingen to Oostende (Royal North Sea Yacht Club)

Goodbye Netherlands. I could easily have stayed there all summer. With a six to seven hour journey ahead of us, 35.4nm, we departed Vlissingen lock at 0930. Aiming to arrive 1530-1630 and certainly before the tide turned against us at 1830. We actually arrived at 1445 - very good going. We started with 1.2 knots positive current on a sunny calm day. SOG 6.4. Turning left to go down the Belgian coast, the current went from slack to an adverse 0.4 kts. At 1036 we had SOG 6 STW 5 with both sails up in just 7kts of apparent wind. Ships were passing shore side of us. At 1222 we passed Zeebrugge and the wind was now the beam. Good heavens, at 1255 off went the engine and we managed a minimum SOG of 4.4, with typical  SOG 6.1 knots. A cluster of twenty-two weekend fishing boats were in a depth of just 5.7 metres, way offshore. Each had an anchor ball. Well done. We docked in Oostende at 1445. So far so good. Now we had the challenge of executing our departure from the EU. We discounted aiming for Ramsgate as the 69nm journey was a bit much for these particular Solent softies. Instead we opted to check out with the Belgium frontier police here in Oostende, where we also learned of a pleasure craft declaration unique to Belgium. Try as I may, I could not get that to work. Planning done and EU checkout sorted, we treated ourselves to a nice meal in the bistro we had visited before.

 

Oostende verdict - it was good to be back. This time the yacht club was actually open so we paid a visit. Drinks and food are somewhat premium priced so just have drinks and enjoy the atmosphere.

 

DAY 41 - Sunday 30th June - Oostende to Calais (outside marina)

Engines for 0850 departure.  A dull start to the day. Exited the harbour with the wind blowing straight at us, making for a lumpy departure. Got the sails up and turned left. We started with partial genoa and main, wind on the beam and turned off the engine. Was a great sail for a good while with STW over 5 knots. Over time the wind decreased and moved from beam onshore to nose. Engine on. By this time the sea surface changed to flat with ripples and a small swell. Went over some shallows down to 3.5M a long way offshore. 1332 now STW 4.9 engine and main. SOG 5.8. Wind dead ahead. It’s cool without the sun. At least it is dry for now. I spoke too soon. The wind veered and sails up again. Then the fringe of a black cloud unleashed its load. The wind picked up in a favourable direction but soon increased and we put in three reefs. Much rain but warm rain. Making good progress, we passed Dunkirk and continued towards Calais. Sophia’s engine was making an unusual sound but it didn’t lead to anything apart from much stress for the skipper. Our preferred channel crossing would be very early the next day. Approaching Calais, I called the port and asked if it would be OK to arrive late, take a waiting buoy outside the marina but then depart early without having entered the marina. I could hear the sound of a gallic shrug of shoulders as they replied “no problem”. No mention of money either. You wouldn’t find that in Yarmouth IOW.

 

Calais marina, outside, verdict - a very light roll, but not enough to disturb a good night’s sleep

 

DAY 42 - Monday 1st July - Calais to Dover (marina)

Remembering our beastly crossing from Dover to Calais, my anxiety neuron was working overtime. It needn’t have. In a NW-W F2-3, we planned the 23.3nm run to Dover in the last of the ebb and the start of the flood. The light wind meant little wind against tide, in theory. We departed at 4am after staying on Calais side of the coast. The sea was a bit rolly at first but it settled down. It was dark as we headed west to get as far possible before the tide turned. Two ships required us to go behind them which allowed us to turn west, down-tide, instead of being at right angles to the separation zone. We ended up just up tide of Dover’s western entrance after a settled crossing. Deep joy. The SOG only briefly dropped to 4.5 knots so our plan was a good one. At Dover entrance we had to wait for a cruise ship to dock at the marina end. Once in and with raised Q flag we rewarded ourselves with a Spoons breakfast. It seemed like a long crossing but was 4.5 hours, not bad going and making our early rise worthwhile. Border Force never did confirm that I could lower my Q flag.

 

Dover verdict - it was good that we were familiar with the port layout and even better that our early travel made it perfect timing for a Spoons breakfast upon arrival.

 

DAY 43 - Tuesday 2nd June - Dover to Eastbourne (Sovereign Harbour)

21nm to Eastbourne. Thank goodness that Sovereign harbour breaks up the long slog from Dover to Brighton. It was a dull and gloomy morning. We departed at 1245 and exited Dover west entrance and turned west, catching the start of the ebb in a calm sea. The wind started offshore, then went directly behind us, not optimal, for most of the journey. Saw a seal west of Dungeness, way out at sea. Saw a fin momentarily just after that. Jenny saw a porpoise. Past Hastings, the wind became southerly, helping counter adverse tide once past Dungeness bay. At one stage the heavens opened and it bucketed it down for quite a while. Only while passing Hastings did the rain stop and the sun momentarily break through. The Sovereign Harbour lock keeper was very pleasant. We filled the tank with diesel.

 

Eastbourne verdict - a fine resort aimed at the upper classes. That was a long time ago but it explains its fine seafront. A good place for an AGM perhaps, ha ha.

 

DAY 44 - Wednesday 3rd June Eastbourne to Brighton (marina)

More head scratching while looking at the weather forecast. The weather was becoming most unsettled and we needed to go west. The wind would blow up after 1pm and we had to cover the 21nm to get in by then. We could leave at 9am but made it 8.30am for a little contingency, heading to the lock at 8am. We should pass Beachy Head no earlier than 9am and expect a positive current from 10am. We exited the lock at 8.12am into a slight adverse current. 4.9 SOG. It was overcast and calm. Sails up but no wind. Approaching Beachy Head at 8.50am we had 0.4 knots positive and wind from the south - excellent. A long ocean swell approaching Beachy Head. A bit bouncy approaching light house at base of cliffs but nothing drastic. Later, much bouncing and positive current. Waves were wind against strong tide. Rounding the head by the lighthouse it is smooth again. Much less current by Birling Gap and at 10.22am the wind was up engine went off. As we continued to Brighton, the wind continued to freshen and we were blasting song at 6kts. It was a relief to enter Brighton marina. I really like the area, just as well as we were to be here for quite some time. Within half an hour of berthing, oh boy did the wind blow up. Soon the marina was full of the sound of screaming rigging and spray from waves was flying over the huge marina walls. Phew, we made it in time. The outlook was for high winds for many days ahead. In these conditions, Brighton has much to offer.

 

Now that we were international celebrities, at least amongst family and friends, we had visitors. By the way, to the Netherlands and back in a 27’ boat sounds vaguely impressive until you remember that past PSSA member Ertan Beskardes, who had P235 Lokum, is currently sailing around the world in a 19’ boat. Paul and Sarah Ryan, of Altair, who had kindly spent hours with us guiding us on how to reach and enjoy the Dutch canals, now wanted repaying through cups of tea and biscuits. Fair enough. They came to see us in Brighton Marina, thank you Ryans, as did son Paul and girlfriend Rachael. We had a fab night together in the marina’s very own Spoons.

 

DAY 45 - Thursday 4th July - 2nd night in Brighton

We would normally explore Brighton by bike but it was too windy to cycle. Instead we took a bus to small restaurant Oeuf in Hove where we had a noon reservation. If you are in Brighton or Hove you really should visit Oeuf. It is so popular you will definitely need to make a reservation. It is open until late afternoon and has a unique menu, mostly egg based. It’s a real treat. While Jenny and Sue walked from Hove to town, Peter and I took a bus to town and visited a Brighton Spoons before being taken to charity shops in Hove pedestrian area. We continued to the pier, now chargeable in season. After tea we continued to the Lanes to mooch. Returning to the marina, the wind was unbelievably strong. Shoreham airport reported Beaufort 7.5. If anything the wind strengthened overnight while we cooked on board. A German lady we’d met in Eastbourne, who’d voyaged alongside us to Brighton, came to see us and said to visit. We went over armed with wine and had a great evening sharing harbour knowledge, photos and having a great chat. They got the boat for a great price from a wealthy family. When the owner died the children already had very large boats so this couple took it on. The German guy is a boatbuilder and the German girl is a carpenter. Carla and Frithjof from Fischkind are both absolutely charming. The boat dates from 1976 and after extensive remodelling it looks like new. A gorgeous boat. Late to bed at 2335 and the wind continues to howl like crazy.

 

DAY 46 - Friday 5th July - 3rd night in Brighton

Wet day. In bed most of the day. Sue walked into town and back. Boats near the entrance to the marina were pinned hard onto the pontoon with spray splashing up their sides. What a scary sight within a marina.

 

DAY 47 - Saturday 6th July - 4th night in Brighton

Winds are howling but it’s sunny. A few heavy showers. Met PSSA members Nigel and Debbie, of Double Trouble, at the railway station as they had come to join us for a day out.  For the first time, I had nearby Belgian chips then walked past the toy museum under the railway station then continued to Brighton Open Market. Very entertaining. Bought a super blueberry muffin with cream from the Swedish lady host and later returned to buy three more pastries. Had a beer at the brewery shop / bar on the way out. Went to nearby Lanes for a good explore. We continued to the jewellery Lanes then to watch the lively sea. Had a drink on the beach. Back to the marina and ate at Spoons, again. Debbie and Nigel departed to catch an evening train to their boat moored in Bursledon. Bed.

 

DAY 48 - Sunday 7th July - 5th night in Brighton

Winds howling and rain overnight. Lazy morning in the rain. Up late. Took bus to Oeuf, again, yes very decadent, to rendezvous with our Paul and Rachael, together with Peter and Jenny. Excellent food. Walked to the nearby i360 viewing tower then took a bus back to the marina. The wind was forecast to ease but would the swell die down? Agreed to depart 0730 Monday. Bed. Alas the wind was still howling until early hours of the morning. As the winds were forecast to increase again on Tuesday we needed to get going, aiming to be at Looe Channel at high water Monday at 1pm.

 

Brighton verdict - if you are going to be stuck for days, Brighton is a great place to be, berthing fees apart.

 

DAY 49 - Monday 8th July - Brighton to home - Deacons Marina, Hamble

After another rainy night the wind has eased and we plan a 7.30am departure Brighton to Solent. Overcast low grey cloud. The timing meant we had to depart our berth at low water. What a shock - we had to manoeuvre with our rudder up and floating and with well less than half keel. Thank heavens for our lifting keel. Outside, miraculously, the sea state was just a slight swell despite five days of blow. Unexpectedly, there is a slight current with us at least up to Shoreham and we are managing SOG 5.2. We reached Looe channel at 1258 in rain. Perfect. It was rolly after Looe and the wind went south then behind as we flew along at 8.4kts SOG. After a brisk passage, we were opposite Portsmouth’s spinnaker tower at 1445. The wind eased and we wondered if we would make it to our tidal berth before 7.30pm low water. At 1503 we were enjoying a bonkers fast 8.1kts SOG so decided to skip a Gosport stop and continue to the Hamble on our beam reach. I could not believe we had covered such a distance at great speed, all the way. At 1542 the wind eased so we took down the mainsail taken down opposite Hill Head. The swell has gone and the sea is not a nice colour anymore. The positive current ended at Calshot Spit. Would we be slogging agains the ebb up the Hamble? No! It was still on the flood. We reached the Hamble River mouth at 1616 berthed at 5pm. What a fantastic way to end the cruise. The next morning, Peter and Jenny joined us at the marina cafe to have a celebratory farewell breakfast. I’m ready to do it all over again (not the breakfast, everything).

 

Epilogue - Peter, Jenny, Sue and I survived our expedition, endured all the rain without complaint, and agree that it was possible to have a great time sailing even if the weather was not so kind. Canals are good. Dutch inland harbours are a joy. What was strange was returning home in early July, with a whole season of sailing ahead of us.