Does this piccie look right? If so, I have a problem because the engine tiller fouls the aluminium slide (as pointed to by finger).

I cannot straighten the engine or tilt the throttle tiller!

It appears that the wooden slide is too short or the aluminium strip too high. Or is it me being thick?

[img][/img]

Stephen Godber

235/51 "Exodus"

I also think that to hold it up you need to put the fairing plate under the engine....the skeg should sit in the groove of the plate....

The hole is to put a lock through...

Parker 235/ 40 Lady Penelope...

The rails are JUST too high - I'm too late, paint already taken off throttle! I need to file down the rail top OR add a packer on top of the plywood board to raise the engine a couple of mm.

I hadn't realised that the skeg takes the full weight of the (raised)outboard, I assumed the skeg cut-out was to accomodate the skeg but not actually support it. Still not sure where the board goes, presumably between the aluminium rails and the rubber buffers, but the buffers seem too wide apart and the board passes through....then the engine clamps jam into the deck top!

May need to speak to Bill.....thanks for your help though!

Stephen Godber

235/51 "Exodus"

But you do have the board in the right place...

I have the long shaft engine....

My signature.

Parker 235/ 40 Lady Penelope...

I am back in London so I cannot check, but my engine seems to fit well so I am happy to check details next weekend if you still have difficulties.

I had masses of fun fitting all the bits together, but apart from getting the right ropes in the right blocks and jammers etc, I am there. Took about 2 half days to work everything out.

David Pocock

Parker 235/52 Arawa

I had a similar problem.

I have started clamping the engine to the wooden board before sliding the combined engine and board down between the aluminium rails.

Think I have the wooden padding aft so that there is more clearance for the clamps, but could be wrong.

I have padlocks through the Aluminium rails at the top (otherwise the engine can be nicked by lifting out). Have also drilled a hole so I can use a padlock to keep the engine higher when drying out, but rarely use it, I now just lift the engine enough so I can twist it and it is supoorted by the edge of the glassfibre cutout on the flat bit of the casting above the propellor.

Could you clamp the engine slightly off centre to stop your control lever bumping the aluminium rails or are these new buffers stopping that? (I have a long shaft model with no buffers).

Jim

http://freespace.virgin..../sailing_solent_2005.jpg 

James - the buffers are actually lower than the top of the timber, but I may try reversing the ply as you suggest.

If not, a simple filing down of the rail will do it - I am trying to phone Parkers but they've been engaged all morning!

Stephen Godber

235/51 "Exodus"

I use two padlocks and chains to secure the engine when I leave it, so I don't need a lock on the railing.

My wood padding is forward of the main piece. I assumed it was to support the engine clamps, but it does make it difficult when securing the engine (but it's only once a year).

Paul

235/17 Kinkajou

I use the padlock instead of your bolt to keep the engine up when necessary. I found I could not get the engine clamps tight enough unless I put the engine on the board before sliding them both down as a unit.

Jim

http://freespace.virgin..../sailing_solent_2005.jpg 

My signature.

Parker 235/ 40 Lady Penelope...