Additionally, the boat handbook says the safety strops and lifting eyes should be replaced every 2 years. A number of owners have previously commented on keeping the eyes rust free but has anyone ever actually changed them. In order to change the safety strops and to continue to use swaged wire rope only it appears that the lifting eyes need to be removed so if nobody has changed the eyes has anyone replaced the strops?!

Many thanks

Chris Cobb

235/48 "Tarakihi"

The new arrangemnt for the keel lifting rope takes the rope from the top of the keel to turning block fixed to an eye bolt on the end of the deck organiser, then to the winch as normal. This method removes one change indirection of the rope, i.e. the turning block on the base of the mast. To change to this system requires an eye bolt to be fitted and the single block on top of the keel housing needs to be repositioned to take account of the change in direction. It reduces the effort needed to rais the keel by removing the friction losses from one turning block. Not sure it is worth the effort !

With regards to the maintenance of the keel, our 235 is number 25, built in 2004. I changed the keel rope after three years. It was a little fraid so better safe than sorry for such a small cost set against the potential problems if it ever broke.

Our boat is about to be collected from Parker's factory after being in for general keel maintenance and an upgrade to Harken blocks inside the keel housing. Parker's have re-epoxied and anti fouled the keel, cleaned all the old grease away, replaced the keel eye bolts and fitted a new rope. The purchase cost of the eye bolts is not much more than an take away pizza, so if you have any doubts about their condition, just change them.

One interesting point that came up in conversation with Parker's was about the grease in the keel housing. They are finding that as the grease ages, it thickens and goes stiff, causing more resistance than not having any at all. So they have re-installed our keel dry, with out grease, allowing the water to lubricate it.

Hope this helps

Regards

Graham Ebb

235/25 Blue Jazz

Thanks for your info and comments, which were most interesting. I have already been sent a photo of the new block arrangement on 235/49 and had concluded that the angle of the block on top of the keel housing was differnt to ours so your confirmation is very useful in deciding whether to "upgrade" or not. Adding the block on the organiser seems quite straight forward but changing the angle of the the keel housing seems to be a mod to far (if it requires a new case cover and block mounting as we suspect) for little return, especially as we have a 4:1 winch handle (easy winch) already to help us.

We had planned to change the rope and inspect the eyes but was interested to see if anyone had actually changed the latter and the safety strop themselves as it looks a bit of an awkward job with the keel in situ.

Interesting point about the grease - do we try to clean it away or continue its use?! We used a waterproof grease last year so perhaps it hasn't hardened (yet)!

Chris Cobb

235/48 "Tarakihi"

I understand that some people have managed to change the eye bolts with the keel insitu, by using a piece of steel tube with a slot cut in the end to fit over the eye bolt. Not tied it myself but it sounds as though it would work. The eye bolt on the deck organiser could be a little tricky, Parkers replace the outer through deck fastening of the deck organiser with any eye bolt cut to the correct length. The tricky bit is whether the nut inside the coach roof stays in place whilst you change the bolt. If it drops loose it means cutting a hole in the inside lining of the cabin to replace it.

Regards

Graham Ebb

235/25 Blue Jazz

As we don't already have the eye bolt on the deck organiser having to cut a hole in the deck below to gain access is another reason for not upgrading the lifting block from what we have at the moment!

Thanks

Chris Cobb

235/48 "Tarakihi"

Can anyone suggest a solution? We could think of more pulleys to give 8 to 1 or 16 to one, a bigger and.or two gear winch, an electric winch or whatever.

We are new to this boat, so any ideas gratefully received. Thanks tony Berkeley

On mine, in addition to the turning block at the top, it is a three-two arrangement. It works ok, the hardest part always being getting it started when raising from it being completely down. When on its mooring I leave the keel supported halfway, and in lighter winds and a low tide, often sailing like that.

Lots have been written about greasing vs no greasing – I am in the former camp!

Other than that, not sure what else to suggest. Perhaps others might have a bright idea.

Best wishes

I find it hard work (I pause half way) but doable

- I have a two speed winch, but as one is a direct drive, and my one speed winch also has gearing, so I think as long as the winch is geared what you have should be equivalent

- Make sure the ropes aren't twisted in the box (I dry sail so I can get at the bottom block when on the trailer) Otherise raise and suspend from the wire strop, after taking out the covering panel, but make sure the little aluminium bar which the strop suspends from cann't twist and fall in the hole)

- There is a nylon roller at the bottom front of the box, if this has jammed apply grease as a temporary measure? I don't grease mine and it seems to work well enough

- Buy a longer winch handle. I drop the sprayhood and stand with my weight over the winch so I can do continuous turns.

- Its possible something (a screw?) has dropped down the box between the keel and the sides and jammed. This happened to me once and it was difficult to raise the keel, and to get the screw out.

Hope this helps

Jim Hamilton