I think it is a job that needs to be done before there is too much rusting as otherwise there is a risk of shearing off the eye from the thread of the bolt and then there is a real problem. There is a web site, www.stainless-steel.co.uk  that offers a range of lifting eye bolts in 316 grade stainless which I imagine would not rust so does anyone have any ideas why hese should not be used?

We changed our keel eyes recently. The new ones came from Bill Parker (see elsewhere on the forum for the telephone number to use). We didn't have much of a problem removing them but found that when replaced and tightened they didn't line up as before. There appeared to be silicon sealer on the tip of the old eyes. I think this allows the eye to be not fully tightened but still "locked". Don't know if anyone else has done this - the last time I asked on the forum about replacing the eyes I got little or no response. This may suggest that owners don't change the eyes as suggested in the handbook (Bill said it was best to be safe than sorry!). I also asked Bill about changing the eyes for stainless. He was of the opinion that to maintain the same safe working load spec (0.4T if I remember correctly - it's marked on the eye which are properly tested items) the size of the eye should be increased. This would require that the existing holes be re-tapped to suit. We decided that this was a job we didn't want undertake and so put in new original type eyes with lots of water resistant grease. However, our local yard has said that re-tapping the holes would not be that of a problem so we may think about it again in the future.

Chris Cobb

235/48 "Tarakihi"

Yes, the bolts obtained from Bill are tested to 0.4 tons (or tonnes?) whereas the stainless ones in the same size are certified to 340 kg but not sure if this would be enough.

Ive just picked up new eye bolts from Bruce Parker he recommended

sealing with silicon,I understand that if you use stainless eye bolt

there could be a chemical reaction between the stainless and the

castiron keel.

Be Be 235/49

Be Be 235/49

The large allan key was put through the eye of the bolt and the 1/2 inch drive bar used to apply torque to the other end. Other problems were tightening up the schackles sufficiently and alignment of the eye when it was screwed tight.

Thought you might want to see the state of the eye bolts after five and a half years

It has been in place since then with no signs of deterioration other than the light staining visible in the pic. It looks to me to be a better engineering solution to the problem. It also gets the lower block closer to the keel and therefore lets the tackle raise the keel right up into the box (on the 21 anyway).

Geoff Harwood Cygnus P21/30

http://freespace.virgin....james.hamilton/forum.jpg 

Ken Surplice

Commodore

Gary & Ruth Jackson

Thanks for posting the photos, that's definitely of interest.

Congratulations on your purchase. I'm sure you'll love sailing her.

Anthony Russell

235/02 Sea Wyche

(I did this by copying the URL address from Flickr and using the Hyperlink icon )

These are the photos:

These are done by getting Flickr's image URL (not easy!) and using the Insert Image icon

Geoff

Parker 21 / 18 Dawn

Taking advantage of the great weather, it seemed like a good opportunity to change the keel eye bolts!

I have taken the 4 nuts off the plate at the top, that holds the turning pulley. Silly question: is it OK to remove the bolts completely or do they need to be left in place? I didn't know if there were some additional supporting 'arrangement' hidden in the keel housing that would fall out of place if the bolts were removed completely.

Many thanks

John

235/07 Diamond

I didn't find anything other than the four bolts you refer to. I removed the bracket and the surrounding silicone and made sure I put plenty back when reassembling.

Gary/Ruth/& Skipper the Working Cocker Spaniel

Crew of Juicy Blue P235

Regards

John

235/07 Diamond

Gary/Ruth/& Skipper the Working Cocker Spaniel

Crew of Juicy Blue P235

As far as I can tell, mine seems to be rigged in a similar way; might be worth experimenting

John

235/07 Diamond

I replace my keel eyes at the weekend but didn't take the lifting bracket off the top. I just undid the shackles and pulled the two blocks out.

I was a bit concerned at how loose the shackles were when I took it apart and so used small tie wraps instead of wire to keep the pins in place when I re-assembled (tie wrap through the pin’s hole).

The eyes came out very easily with the help of a 8mm allen key into an 8mm socket ,a couple of extension bars and then a ratchet.

With a new rope that isn't covered in grease and blocks that are cleaned the whole system appears to operate a lot smoother.

The rigging of the blocks looks very the same as yours.

Regards

Andy

Jago

Parker 235/04