I recently checked the condition of the keel lifting eye bolt on Aquarius 235/60 and it appeared there was a degree of rusting so decided to try changing it whilst the boat was on the trailer. For the benefit of others, this was not a difficult job. I found a piece of fairly heavy duty steel tube about 2" in diameter and cut a length approx. 18" long. I cut a slot in one end which was designed to fit over the eye of the bolt and in the other end drilled a hole through which a "tommy bar" would pass through. I then flooded the eye bolt with WD40 and left it for a while before attempting to undo it. I put a lot of pressure on the "tommy bar" to undo the bolt but at first it did not shift so I then gave the home made tool a couple of heafty clouts with a hammer and hey-presto, the bolt easily came undone.

I think it is a job that needs to be done before there is too much rusting as otherwise there is a risk of shearing off the eye from the thread of the bolt and then there is a real problem. There is a web site, www.stainless-steel.co.uk  that offers a range of lifting eye bolts in 316 grade stainless which I imagine would not rust so does anyone have any ideas why hese should not be used?

Simon,

We changed our keel eyes recently. The new ones came from Bill Parker (see elsewhere on the forum for the telephone number to use). We didn't have much of a problem removing them but found that when replaced and tightened they didn't line up as before. There appeared to be silicon sealer on the tip of the old eyes. I think this allows the eye to be not fully tightened but still "locked". Don't know if anyone else has done this - the last time I asked on the forum about replacing the eyes I got little or no response. This may suggest that owners don't change the eyes as suggested in the handbook (Bill said it was best to be safe than sorry!). I also asked Bill about changing the eyes for stainless. He was of the opinion that to maintain the same safe working load spec (0.4T if I remember correctly - it's marked on the eye which are properly tested items) the size of the eye should be increased. This would require that the existing holes be re-tapped to suit. We decided that this was a job we didn't want undertake and so put in new original type eyes with lots of water resistant grease. However, our local yard has said that re-tapping the holes would not be that of a problem so we may think about it again in the future.

Chris Cobb

235/48 "Tarakihi"

I too have replacement eye bolts obtained from Bill and this is what I shall fit this time round. When removed, the old one did appear to have silicone on it and also there was a stainless steel washer between the keel and the bolt which probably helps prevent seisure of the bolt to the keel.

Yes, the bolts obtained from Bill are tested to 0.4 tons (or tonnes?) whereas the stainless ones in the same size are certified to 340 kg but not sure if this would be enough.

Ive just picked up new eye bolts from Bruce Parker he recommended
sealing with silicon,I understand that if you use stainless eye bolt
there could be a chemical reaction between the stainless and the
castiron keel.

Be Be 235/49


Be Be 235/49

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Just replaced my bolts. Main problem was cobling together a tool to undo the eye bolts
The large allan key was put through the eye of the bolt and the 1/2 inch drive bar used to apply torque to the other end. Other problems were tightening up the schackles sufficiently and alignment of the eye when it was screwed tight.

Thought you might want to see the state of the eye bolts after five and a half years

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I wonder why Bill has kept on with the eyebolt arrangement on the 235 and 275 when he had the SS strap system I have on my 21 (converted by Bill from the cable winch system in 1997).

It has been in place since then with no signs of deterioration other than the light staining visible in the pic. It looks to me to be a better engineering solution to the problem. It also gets the lower block closer to the keel and therefore lets the tackle raise the keel right up into the box (on the 21 anyway).


Geoff Harwood Cygnus P21/30

One problem might be that in the 235 there is no handy hole to get at the bolt , you have to grope around from the top. Also presumably you would need an eye in any case to lift the keel in and out (different centre of effort).

http://freespace.virgin....james.hamilton/forum.jpg 

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I can recommend Coppaslip. Smear it on the threads and they stay in good condition and do not seize. This does not prevent the eye itself from corroding but at least the part you cannot see is protected.

Ken Surplice
Commodore

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Being new owners of a Parker 235, we found this thread really useful in finding out more about the P235 Keel mechanism many thanks to those contributors. Our previous boat was a Swift 18 for which we had a boat lift made to gain access to the lifting keel. We have recently added extensions to the boat lift and it is now used to lift the keel out of Juicy Blue. I thought this may be of interest to other P235 owners. As I have not yet learned how to post a picture on the site they may be viewed on Flickr, just search Parker 235.Edit Thank you Geoff for your computer wizardry in making the pics appear below.
Gary & Ruth Jackson

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Gary,

Thanks for posting the photos, that's definitely of interest.

Congratulations on your purchase. I'm sure you'll love sailing her.

Anthony Russell
235/02 Sea Wyche

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This is a link to Gary's photos on Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/ra...6316168/with/5104101277/ 
(I did this by copying the URL address from Flickr and using the Hyperlink icon )

These are the photos:






These are done by getting Flickr's image URL (not easy!) and using the Insert Image icon


Geoff

Parker 21 / 18 Dawn

Hi all,

Taking advantage of the great weather, it seemed like a good opportunity to change the keel eye bolts!

I have taken the 4 nuts off the plate at the top, that holds the turning pulley. Silly question: is it OK to remove the bolts completely or do they need to be left in place? I didn't know if there were some additional supporting 'arrangement' hidden in the keel housing that would fall out of place if the bolts were removed completely.

Many thanks

John
235/07 Diamond

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Hi John,
I didn't find anything other than the four bolts you refer to. I removed the bracket and the surrounding silicone and made sure I put plenty back when reassembling.


Gary/Ruth/& Skipper the Working Cocker Spaniel
Crew of Juicy Blue P235

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Thanks for the prompt reply, and also for the pic. No, I was really being super-cautious, in case there was something hidden. Mine looks very similar to yours - except yours is clean!

Regards

John
235/07 Diamond

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Looking at my picture and the way the lifting tackle is rigged, I wonder if it would be possible to have it rigged so as it works up in the middle pulley to get a more central pull? Is mine rigged correctly?

Gary/Ruth/& Skipper the Working Cocker Spaniel
Crew of Juicy Blue P235

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Thanks Gary & Ruth,

As far as I can tell, mine seems to be rigged in a similar way; might be worth experimenting



John
235/07 Diamond

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Hi

I replace my keel eyes at the weekend but didn't take the lifting bracket off the top. I just undid the shackles and pulled the two blocks out.

I was a bit concerned at how loose the shackles were when I took it apart and so used small tie wraps instead of wire to keep the pins in place when I re-assembled (tie wrap through the pin’s hole).

The eyes came out very easily with the help of a 8mm allen key into an 8mm socket ,a couple of extension bars and then a ratchet.

With a new rope that isn't covered in grease and blocks that are cleaned the whole system appears to operate a lot smoother.

The rigging of the blocks looks very the same as yours.

Regards
Andy


Jago
Parker 235/04

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